Cro-文字-Water Lily 荷花 | Make My Day Creative

Mirrored glass display of crochet water lilies – seamless pattern from makemydaycreative.com

It was bound to happen. I bought this yarn for theblanket I’m working on – but of course I got distracted.

I’ve been looking for a good water lily pattern for a while, and whilst I’ve seen a few most of them require sewing several layers together. Also, most water lilies I have seen have 8 petals around – but most of the patterns out there use 6 petal repeats. A minor detail I know, but it’s nice to be accurate!

You can use these for whatever you like really. I’m thinking of making a few more and then displaying on mirrored glass along with leaves as a centrepiece for a table. Or adding a few rows to turn it into squares for a cushion…

Seamless crocheted water lily

Scroll down for ! (US and UK notation)

You will need:

White (or how about pink or purple?) dk yarn (I used Rico baby so soft – approx 40m)

Yellow dk yarn (I used Rico baby so soft – approx 10m)

A size 4mm hook

Pattern:

The pattern is worked in the round from the centre out. The stamen and petals are worked into the front loops of the round before the next increase of the base circle is worked into the unworked back loops. This means no sewing together later!

Begin with yellow yarn; make a magic ring.

Round 4 complete

R1: 8hdc into ring, sl-st in to front loop of first hdc to join. Pull ring closed. (8sts)

R2: (Work in front loop only (f.l.o.) of each st in R1) *Ch4, sl-st into 2nd ch from hook, 2 more sl-st (down the ch), sl-st into next st, repeat from *7 more times. Work the final sl-st into the back loop of R1. (8 centre stamen made)

R3: (Work in back loop only (b.l.o.) of each st in R1) Ch1 (does not count as st), 2sc in each st around, join with a sl-st into f.l. of 1st sc (16sts).

R4: (Work in f.l.o. of each st in R3) *Ch5, sl-st into 2nd ch from hook, 3 more sl-st (down the ch), sl-st into next st, repeat from *15 more times. Work the final sl-st into the back loop of R3. (16 outer stamen made)

Fasten off and join white yarn.

R5: (Work in b.l.o. of each st in R3) Ch1 (does not count as st), *2sc, sc, repeat from * around, join with a sl-st into f.l. of 1st sc (24sts).

Tip: If you find that your petals curve to one side, try crocheting your chain more loosely or tightly to correct it.

Completing R6: Petal prior to final dc, after final dc, after sl-st, completed round 6.

R6: (Work in f.l.o. of each st in R5) ch1 (does not count as st), *sc, ch5, sl-st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in final ch, dc around the post of the sc at the start of the chain, sl-st in next st, sc, repeat from * 7 more times, but omit the final sc and work a sl-st to join (8 innermost petals made)

R7: (Work in b.l.o. of each st in R5) Ch1 (does not count as st), *2sc, sc, sc, repeat from * around, join with a sl-st into f.l. of 1st sc (32sts).

R8: Ch1, sl-st in f.l. of st behind (i.e. the last sc of R7) – this will stagger the next row of petals from the row just worked.

(Work in f.l.o. of each st in R7) ch1 (does not count as st), *sc, ch6, sl-st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, tr in final ch, tr around the post of the sc at the start of the chain, sk 1 st, sl-st in next st, sc, repeat from * 7 more times, but omit the final sc and work a sl-st to join (8 more petals made)

R9: (Work in b.l.o. of each st in R7) Ch1 (does not count as st), *sc, sc, sc, 2sc, repeat from * around, join with a sl-st into f.l. of 1st sc (40sts).

Round 10 makes “arms” which the next set of petals are worked into. Most people work into the back loop only when working down a chain. I suggest you do that here because on R11 you can then work into the front loops of the chains!

R10: (Work in f.l.o. of each st in R9) *Ch6, slst in 2nd ch, 4 more sl-st down chain, sl-st in 1st st, sc 5 times, repeat from * 7 more times, omitting last sc, sl-st to join (8 “arms” made).

Round 11 is worked around R10, working up and down the arms to make the penultimate row of petals. When working up the first side of the “arms” you should have back loops available from the chain. When working down the second side of the arms, it is easier to work into just to back loops of the sl-sts. This also leaves a nice ridge up the centre of the petals. If you prefer though, you can work through both loops of the sl-sts.

Outer petals with ridge running up centre

R11: Turn work and sl-st twice so that you are starting the row from between the two arms. Turn the work back to work into the first arm (there will be 5 chains, ignoring the turning ch).

*Work into each ch as follows: (dc, dc, hdc, sc, sl-st).

Now work back down the other side of the arm – you can chain 1 here if you find it difficult to turn – (sl-st, sc, hdc, dc,dc).

On the main body of flower: sk 1 st, sl-st, sl-st, repeat from * 7 more times, omitting the last sc – join with a sl-st into the 2nd of the two sl-sts worked at the beginning of this round. (8 petals made)

R12: (Work in b.l.o. of each st in R9) Ch2, sl-st into b.l. of 1st st in R10.

Ch1 (does not count as st), *2sc, sc, sc, sc, sc, repeat from * around, join with a sl-st into f.l. of 1st sc (48sts).

For a more closed lily, or to allow loops for turning this flower into a square motif, work R13 into f.l.o. as instructed (as per example here). If you prefer an outer row of petals which lies flatter you can work both loops as you would normally for R13. (Make the final sl-st of R12 through both loops in this case.)

R13: (Work in f.l.o. of each st in R12) *Chain 7, turn, sl-st in 2nd ch from hook, 5 sl-st, sc 6 times, repeat from * 7 more times, omitting last sc and joining with a sl-st (8 arms made).

R14: As with R11, turn and make 3 sl-sts back along the last sc’s just made. Turn and work the next sts up the 1st arm:

*tr, tr, dc, hdc, sc, sl-st, ch2. Now work down the 2nd side of the arm: sl-st, sc, hdc, dc, tr, tr.

Sk 3 sts, sl-st (into the middle st between the arms). Repeat from * 7 more times.