作者: 《英国老帽儿》之保罗·里格比
翻译:神秘北大团队
图片:英国老帽儿们(独家版权)
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到访英国,吃上一盘新鲜美味的英式早餐,是开始一天旅程的最好方式......保罗·里格比感叹道。
There’s no better way to start the day on a visit to Britain than this delicious collection of lovingly fried fresh food, says Paul Rigby…
随便走进一家典型的英式咖啡厅,你都会在菜单的显眼位置上看到“全套英式早餐”这道菜。住在英国的酒店里,吃其自带早餐时,同样会有这道菜。打开杂志或是在电视频道上翻看一下,也总能见到某人在某地,大模大样地享受英式早餐!
Walk into a typical British cafe, and somewhere near the top of the menu you will find the ‘full English breakfast’. Stay at a British hotel and, when you sit down to eat in the morning, there it will be again. Open up a magazine or switch on the television, and someone, somewhere, will be greedily tucking into one!
英国北方管这道菜叫“fry up”,南边一般都叫“full English”,但无论你怎么称呼它,它都是一如既往地美味、便宜且易于烹饪。吃时再配上一杯大家所说的“棕色的喜悦(a cup of brown joy)”(其实就是英国奶茶),你便有了所需的一切能量来源。嗯......至少是午餐以前一切能量的来源。
In the north, they call it a ‘fry up’ while down south it’s a more usually a ‘full English’, but whatever you call it, it’s delicious, and cheap and easy to cook. Taken with what some call ‘a cup of brown joy’ (a cup of tea), and you have everything you need to power you through the day. Well, at least until lunchtime!
和灰色的天空、绿色的草地、温热的啤酒一样,全套英式早餐是英国生活中不可或缺的一部分——它激励着全体英国人民早起下床。确实,这道菜唯一不完美的地方是它的名字:“全套英式早餐”,因为“早餐”在其它时间就吃不成呀——于是最近,这道菜被巧妙地重新冠名为“全天候早餐”。
Like grey skies, green grass and warm beer, the full English breakfast is an integral part of British life – it inspires the nation to get out of bed. Indeed, the only thing wrong with the ‘full English breakfast’ is that, being a breakfast, you can’t eat it all day – so recently it has been ingeniously renamed ‘all day breakfast’.
文雅的法国邻居喜欢把菜摆成艺术品,但在英国,人们更喜欢把所有好吃的盛进一个大盘子里,以方便我们一气呵成进食的节奏。煎培根和煎鸡蛋是必不可少的;如果你的“全套英式早餐”里没有这两样,那你肯定是上当了!香肠也很重要——没有香肠的早餐只配叫做“培根煎鸡蛋”。但要想真正赢得“全套”的美誉,这道早餐需要的东西还有很多......
Our cultured French neighbours arrange their dishes in an artistic way, but the British prefer simply to throw everything onto a large plate, to facilitate the process of speedy eating. Fried bacon and fried eggs are essential; if your ‘full English’ comes without either of these then it’s an imposter and a fraud! Sausages are important too – without these it isn’t a ‘full English’, just ‘bacon and eggs’. But to really earn the ‘full’ accolade, your first meal of the day needs to come with an array of extras…
培根、鸡蛋、香肠自不必说,但除这些之外,你还要配上烤豆子、黑布丁、煎西红柿和煎蘑菇、两片烤面包,外加一些番茄酱和英国棕酱(HP sauce)——超级内行食客还要洒上几滴辣酱油(Worcester Sauce)。把所有这些都吃完, 保你撑得肚子滚圆。
The bacon, eggs and sausages must be right, but only when baked beans, black pudding, fried tomatoes and mushrooms are also included does it truly pass the taste test. You’ll also want a couple of slices of toast with that too, and a dash of tomato ketchup, HP sauce or – if you’re a connoisseur – a few splashes of Worcester Sauce. After you have eaten your way through all of this, then it is not the breakfast that will be full, but you!
还有一些对早餐态度极为认真的人,他们会在上述材料的基础上添加更多的东西。在维多利亚时代,曾出现在早餐中的菜品包括猪脸、烤大比目鱼和山鸡腿等山珍海味。有些地方早餐还加入了当地风味:苏格兰人会加入肉馅羊肚(haggis:羊或牛内脏做的咸味特色布丁)一起吃,而威尔士人会加入花蛤。
Those who really take their ‘fry ups’ seriously will add even more. In Victorian times, you could find delicacies such as pig’s cheek, baked halibut steaks and pheasant legs on the plate. Then there are plenty of regional variations; you may see haggis (a savoury pudding featuring the offal from a sheep or calf) in Scotland, while in Wales they might add cockles.
烹调“英式早餐”需要一口大而浅的平底煎锅。油品的选用也是有讲究的;我们的主编喜欢用特级初榨橄榄油,椰子油的效果也不错。若预算有限可以买普通食用油,能省个几便士。食物出锅时,最好先在厨房用的吸水餐巾纸上放一会儿,以便漓掉多余的油脂。
Cooking the ‘full English’ is done in a large, shallow, flat bottomed frying pan. The choice of cooking oil counts for a lot; your editor prefers extra virgin olive oil, although coconut oil is also superb. Those on a budget can simply buy standard ‘cooking oil’, and save a few pennies. When the food comes out of the frying pan, it’s a good idea to place it on absorbent kitchen roll for a minute or so, to let most of the oil drain away.
19世纪上半叶,维多利亚时代的人把早餐升级成了一天中的重要日程,但追根溯源,全套英式早餐的历史比这还要早五百年。那时富有的绅士们喜欢在乡间豪宅中炫耀自家高质量的农产品和肉产品,因此他们非常重视早餐。在英国几乎任何事情都有自己的协会,这个一天中最重要的一餐也不例外。详情请见“英式早餐协会”网站:www.englishbreakfastsociety.com
It was the Victorians who turned breakfast into an important time of the day in the early nineteenth century, but its roots go back another five hundred years. Rich gentlemen living in huge country houses used to show off the quality of their meats and agricultural produce – and they took breakfasting very seriously. Almost everything in Britain has its own society, and the most important meal of the day is no exception. Check out www.englishbreakfastsociety.com to learn more.
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