Using long exposure in landscape photography is an incredibly popular and beautiful way to capture an image of the great outdoors. Using long exposure techniques in photography can yield a few different types of images including:
Motion Blur: Creating a blurry effect to a subject or nature in motion
Light Streaks: To turn normal lights into long streaks of electric color
Light Painting: Using a light source to “paint” images within a long exposure
Long exposure uses a slow shutter speed to elongate details in an image and create an almost ethereal, magical effect to your images. When creating long exposure landscape photography, popular ways that people use this technique is to create a motion blur in waterfalls, capture light trails by moving cars, and taking images of the stars. However, it can also be used for everyday landscape photography to slow things down, and really capture a sharp and stunning image.
The following twelve tips are some suggestions on how you can get started in long exposure landscape photography, and start creating some of these images for stock.
When you initially arrive at a shoot location (especially if it’s a beautiful one), your first instinct may be to start immediately shooting. However, our top tip is to slow down. Analyze what equipment and what settings you need. The scene needs to create the effect you want in your images.
Where is the sun? When is the light going to be at its optimal shoot point? Is there a defining feature to the scene, such as a waterfall? Ask yourself questions about what the location demands before you start shooting.
Taking a step back, slowing down, and not getting click-crazy is the ultimate way to create images that have a true impact.
Neutral density (ND) filters are incredibly useful tools to have when shooting long exposure landscape photography. ND filters allow you to control the amount of light that passes through the lens, giving the photography the best control overexposure.
For photographers wanting to shoot long exposures, this means that you can shoot longer exposures no matter what time of day it is (ie: bright daylight).
Each stop of an ND filter reduces the amount of light entering the camera by a factor of two. For example:
1 stop = 2 = ND2
2 stops = 2 x 2 = ND4
3 stops = 2 x 2 x 2 = ND8
This continues the more stops you have on your filter, and can greatly support you in creating long exposure landscape photographs during the day by controlling the light.
We’ve already discussed the first must-have gear for long exposures (ND filters), and this tool pairs with the ND filters to create great long exposures. That must-have piece of gear is a tripod. A tripod is a must-have for shooting great, stable long exposures. While you can absolutely prop your camera on a rock or tree stump in a pinch, a tripod is the ultimate piece of equipment for capturing long exposures.
Basically, the more stable of a tripod or supporting surface for your camera, the sharper your image will be and the slower you can slow down your shutter to capture long exposures.
An ND filter can make it really challenging to focus with, as it really limits the amount of light getting through. We suggest composing your image and setting your focus before you shoot to allow you the best chance of capturing the image you want. After you’ve focused and composed your image, switch your camera to manual focus and attach the ND filter. This removes the lens capability to adjust the focus once the filter is on.
Once you’ve added your filter, you’ll need to recalculate the correct exposure for the ND filter you added. For example, if you exposed an image without a filter at f/4, 1/200 and ISO 100, and you added an ND4 filter, you’ll need to remove two stops of light. That image with an ND filter could be shot at f/3.2, 1/200 and ISO 100.
If you move your tripod or want to compose an alternative shot, however, you will need to remove the filter and re-adjust your focus and composition before putting the filter back on.
Using a remote shutter release cable that links to your camera on a tripod is the quickest and easiest way to capture long exposures. By using a shutter release cable, you limit any opportunity for camera shake and for the image to be unfocused.
Alternatively, if you don’t have a remote shutter release cable, you can use the camera’s self-timer to set the shutter and then step back and limit camera shake. Cameras typically have a two-second and ten-second timer. When possible, we suggest using the ten-second timer to have the lowest opportunity for camera shake.
With a tripod and a slower shutter speed, in most cases, you should be able to keep your ISO low while shooting. This limits the amount of noise in your image and creates the sharpest long exposure possible. There are not many cases where you have the opportunity to keep your ISO low, but shooting long exposures (especially during the day) is one of them.
Choosing the right conditions for the environment you’d like to shoot in is necessary when shooting long exposures. If you don’t have a focal point with movement such as a waterfall, you will just be shooting a typical landscape image.
To create a long exposure out of a classic landscape, such as a field look for clouds and wind. Spotty clouds and wind create motion in the sky and allow the viewer to see a difference in your long exposure image. The same can also be said for wheat or tall grass moving in the wind, or waves on the ocean. Wind creates motion in an image, which is key for long exposure landscape photography.
If you have a keen interest in shooting stars and epic images of the milky way, you need to wait for a clear night, without clouds. The clearer the sky, the better the chance of seeing stars. Look for interesting and dynamic outdoor locations that can offer foregrounds to your images, such as trees or mountains.
Once you find the right spot, set your camera up. For typical images of stars in the sky or milky way, you’ll want your exposure to just a few seconds (fifteen should work most of the time), and adjust your aperture from there while limiting the ISO you need to increase.
To shoot images of star trails, you’ll need to use a significantly slower shutter speed. In most situations, an exposure between thirty minutes to an hour would be enough to produce streaks. The longer the shutter is open, the longer the trails. Make sure your camera is charged and that you have a stable tripod or surface if shooting light trails is your goal.
To create a circular pattern to your light trails, you’ll need to locate the North Star as a focal point to set your composition and focus. Use an app such as Star Tracker or Sky Map to find it by pointing your camera to the sky and start searching.
We get it. Not everyone has access to the great outdoors. But long exposure landscape photography can be done in the city too. Light streaks (or trails) can come from the taillights and headlights of passing vehicles on a busy street. Find a place that has a lot of traffic, and an interesting composition (such as a raised bridge). Your shutter speed should be between five and twenty seconds, depending on how much ambient light is available.
Another great way you can shoot long exposures in an urban city or nature is to create a light painting effect within your long exposure frame. This may require the assistance of a friend, or a really good wireless remote. The only other thing you need is an additional light source, such as a flashlight or a sparkler.
Start by taking a test shot without the additional light source to set the exposure of the light available. Expose the image a little on the darker side as you’ll be putting an extra light source in the frame. Your shutter speed should be at least thirty seconds to allow you to get into the scene and light the subject.
Whoever is in the scene with the light should be wearing dark clothing and keep moving throughout the shot so that they don’t show up in focus. Aim the light source at the subject or landscape you want to paint on, not at the camera. Keep the light moving, and practice different techniques. Try to light words, or create hearts and other shapes to start.
There’s nothing more soothing than a silky, smooth flowing waterfall. Or, motion frozen in time from a passing surfer on a massive wave. These striking images create a magical feel to any photograph. When shooting with water, think of what direction the water is flowing and give it room within your frame. Using the rule of thirds, compose your image to generate interest within the frame along with those points.
Shutter speed will greatly affect the look you’re after, and your settings depend on how fast water is flowing. We suggest starting at five seconds and adjust from there depending on the amount of light available and what your ideal aperture is.
When you’re not photographing rivers or waterfalls and maybe want to try long exposures of subjects in water (such as surfers or an underwater salmon), start with a slightly faster shutter speed as you may want the surfer or fish in the frame to be more focused. We suggest starting at 1/10 and adjusting from there depending on how fast the subject moves within the water or frame.
“Landscape photography is the supreme test of the photographer—and often the supreme disappointment,” said the great Ansel Adams. Landscape photography can be challenging. Creating a unique image that isn’t just a captured landscape requires patience, research, and passion. Lighting makes a huge difference in landscape photography, and waiting for the right light is absolutely key in long exposures.
Don’t rush when you’re shooting long exposures. When it comes to night photography, wait until you know where the stars you want to shoot are in the sky. Apps like Star Tracker are great for telling you exactly when and where to expect your favorite stars.
In daylight long exposure landscape photography, waiting for the right wind and where the sun is going to be is pivotal to creating the ideal image. Apps such as Sun Seeker are comprehensive ways to see exactly where the sun is going to be at any time of the day, no matter where you are in the world.
We hope this article helps you in your goals to shoot more long exposure landscape photography. We can’t wait to see what you create next for Shutterstock.
Featured image by David M. Schrader
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