2011年 06月 17日 07:40
Agence France-Presse
上海夜景。
上
海的夜晚，黄浦江被江边数十座用作全球金融机构写字楼的摩天大厦照得亮如白昼。世界级的饭店和夜总会里挤满了当地人和外国人。在各个购物区，国际知名设计师的旗舰店鳞次栉比。
但是，上海的夜晚可不仅仅是techno音乐、摩天大楼和奢侈品。
据研究上海历史的派翠克•克兰利（W. Patrick Cranley）说，虽然上海老城区相当多建筑被拆——存留到今天的老房子仅有大约20%，但在这个大都市的许多角落里，仍然可以发现很多可以追溯到二十世纪之初的建筑珍品。这些建筑中，一些已经破败不堪，人去楼空，另外一些则成了全城最顶级酒吧、餐厅和休闲活动中心的所在。
Hamilton House
图片：上海老建筑里的夜生活
夜游上海老城区，首选从先前法租界安静的林荫道开始。先前的法租界所在地距离黄浦江没有多远。
法租界最初于十八世纪中期划定之后，又向西扩了一部分。到1914年，租界将老城墙内的很大一部分也包围在里面。现在，该地区的街道已不再沿用第一次世界大战中法国英雄和侨居上海的欧洲居民的名字，但是上水井盖上仍有“eau”（法语，水的意思）的痕迹。
隐身在高墙之内的老宅邸有些已经被改造成政府办公室，其他一些则归私人所有。这些私人宅邸进行了翻新，内部和外墙都经过了整修，重现了昔日的显赫辉煌。
在东湖路（原名杜美路）一座建于1928年的建筑内，开了一家名为“el-Willy”的西班牙餐厅，餐厅里经常坐满了在上海工作的欧洲人和富有的中国人。餐厅内的主色调是富丽堂皇的红色和橙色，还有砖块裸露在外的拱门。户外有一个天井，先前的主人曾在这里侍弄蔬菜。
餐厅主厨威利•特鲁利亚斯•莫雷诺（Willy Trullas Moreno）来自巴赛隆纳，他拿手的龙虾海鲜饭、辣肠馅西班牙煎蛋卷、伊比利亚火腿等餐前小菜需要的所有材料全部从国外进口。餐厅附属的那家小酒吧专营来自西班牙、阿根廷和智利的美酒。
楼上则是Sushi Oyama寿司店，这里的金枪鱼腩卷（toro roll）堪称沪上一流，你可以在寿司吧，也可以在日式雅间里享用美味寿司。周末订餐要趁早，因为el-Willy和Sushi Oyama通常都会很早就订满了。
如果不去外滩（Bund）看看，此趟夜上海怀旧游就算不得完满。外滩是黄浦江西岸的一条步行道，从这里可以眺望对岸灯火璀璨、美不胜收的浦东——上海的新兴商业中心。
当地政府修复了外滩几十座具有历史意义的老建筑，恢复了码头区域几十年前的繁华。费尔蒙和平饭店（Fairmont Peace Hotel）——原名华懋饭店（Cathay），是二十世纪三十年代上海最知名的饭店之一——经过三年的装修之后，于去年重新开业。据饭店老板称，装修费用高达6400万元。最初，该饭店是地产大亨维克多•沙逊（Victor Sassoon）爵士名下的产业，是上海第一个装饰派艺术风格（Art Deco）的大型建筑——当年的上海本来是极有可能成为世界装饰艺术之都的。华懋饭店新潮的设计和奢华的内部装修，吸引了本地名流和在这座城市做短暂停留的外地名士——克兰利说，剧作家诺埃尔•考沃德（Noel Coward）、萧伯纳（George Bernard Shaw）和电影明星查理•卓别林（Charlie Chaplin）都曾在此入住。
外滩还有华尔道夫酒店（Waldorf Astoria Hotel），它所在的大厦在一个世纪前是上海总会（Shanghai Club）的所在地。酒店内有仿制的当年上海总会著名的长吧台（Long Bar）。这个名符其实的长吧台一度被宣称为亚洲最长的吧台。长达34米的吧台并不是这家酒店唯一的特色：大理石柱、彩色玻璃窗和华贵的墙板全部都是根据档案照片还原而成的。这些设计旨在创造一种原汁原味的氛围，就好像二十世纪二十年代的那个喧嚣、充满诱惑的旧上海根本没有消失。
然而，就在外滩后面不远处，还矗立着很多破旧的建筑——要想保护好老上海的风貌，还有很多事情要做。
沿着码头区向东，穿过主街，来到福州路和江西路的路口。这里有四座可以追溯到二十世纪初的老建筑。其中之一是汉密尔顿大厦（Hamilton House），当年也是沙逊爵士的产业，如今改成了同名的餐厅兼酒吧。光线柔和、装饰派艺术风格的内部设计让这座建成于1934年的大厦成为享用睡前酒和极致美味甜点的好去处。
然而，隔壁那座当初被设计为汉米尔顿大厦翻版的大楼却被一家破败的旅馆所占用。街道对面的那座老楼计划建成新的上海历史博物馆，目前仍旧空着。另外一个街角上矗立的则是上海公安局的一座大楼。Hamilton House餐厅的老板理查•赛维尔（Richard Xavia）说，这些具有重要建筑意义的大楼将来是否会得到修葺，现在还不得而知。
赛维尔说，“上海在往哪个方向发展，这很难说。它还是一个很年轻的城市，仍旧在不断发展。”
夜晚的黄浦江被沿岸摩天大厦的灯火照得亮如白昼，世界级饭店和夜总会里挤满了当地人和外国人。而老建筑里的夜生活别有一番风味。
汉密尔顿大厦酒吧：光线柔和、装饰派艺术风格的内部设计让这座建成于1934年的大厦成为享用睡前酒和极致美味甜点的好去处。
Hamilton House
上海夜景：夜游上海老城区，首选从先前法租界安静的林荫道开始。先前的法租界所在地距黄浦江并不远。
当地政府修复了外滩几十座具有历史意义的老建筑，恢复了码头区域几十年前的繁华。华尔道夫酒店(Waldorf Astoria Hotel)所在的大厦在一个世纪前是上海总会(Shanghai Club)的所在地。
Waldorf Astoria Hotel
酒店内有仿制的当年上海总会传奇的长吧台(Long Bar)。这个名符其实的长吧台一度被宣称为亚洲最长吧台，长达34米。但它并不是这家酒店唯一的特色：大理石柱、彩色玻璃窗和华贵的墙板全部都是根据档案照片还原而成的。这些设计旨在创造一种原汁原味的氛围，就好像二十世纪二十年代的那个喧嚣、充满诱惑的旧上海根本没有消失。
Waldorf Astoria Hotel
华尔道夫酒店大厅。
Waldorf Astoria Hotel
在东湖路（原名杜美路）一座建于1928年的建筑内，开了一家名为“el-Willy”的西班牙餐厅，餐厅里经常坐满了在上海工作的欧洲人和富有的中国人。餐厅内的主色调是富丽堂皇的红色和橙色，还有砖块裸露在外的拱门。户外有一个天井，先前的主人曾在这里侍弄蔬菜。
el-Willy
上海法租界的“el-Willy”餐厅：餐厅主厨威利·特鲁利亚斯·莫雷诺(Willy Trullas Moreno)来自巴塞罗那，他拿手的龙虾海鲜饭、辣肠馅西班牙煎蛋卷、伊比利亚火腿等餐前小菜所需的所有材料全部从国外进口。餐厅附属的那家小酒吧专营来自西班牙、阿根廷和智利的美酒。
el-Willy
汉密尔顿大厦：福州路和江西路的路口有四座可以追溯到二十世纪初的老建筑。其中之一是汉密尔顿大厦(Hamilton House)，当年也是沙逊爵士(Sassoon)的产业，如今改成了同名的餐厅兼酒吧。
Hamilton House
汉密尔顿大厦酒吧：光线柔和、装饰派艺术风格的内部设计让这座建成于1934年的大厦成为享用睡前酒和极致美味甜点的好去处。
Hamilton House
上海夜景：夜游上海老城区，首选从先前法租界安静的林荫道开始。先前的法租界所在地距黄浦江并不远。
A Historic Evening In Shanghai
In Shanghai at night, the Huangpu River is lit up by dozens of glittering skyscrapers that house the offices of global financial institutions. Locals and expatriates alike throng world-class restaurants and nightclubs. The city's shopping districts brim with flagships from internationally renowned designers.
But there's more to an evening in Shanghai than techno music, skyscrapers and luxury retail.
While much of Old Shanghai has been bulldozed -- only around 20% of the city's traditional housing remains today, according to W. Patrick Cranley, a local historian -- architectural gems dating to the turn of the 20th century and earlier can be found in many corners of the metropolis. Some are dilapidated and empty, but others are home to some of the best bars, restaurants and lounges the city has to offer.
A night out in Old Shanghai should begin on the quiet tree-lined streets of the former French Concession, a swath of land not far from the Huangpu River.
Annexed by the French in the mid-1800s and later expanded westward, the district surrounded much of the old walled-in Chinese city by 1914. The streets are no longer named after French heroes and European residents of Shanghai who fought in World War I, but the manhole covers are still marked 'eau,' French for water.
Behind high walls, some old mansions have been converted into government offices, while private owners have renovated others, restoring their interiors and facades to contemporary versions of their past glory.
On Donghu Lu (formerly Rue Dounier), a 1928 structure is now home to a Spanish restaurant called el-Willy often filled with a mix of European expats and well-to-do Chinese. The interior is in lush red and orange, with exposed brick arches, and outdoors there's a patio on the spot where a former owner grew vegetables.
Chef Willy Trullas Moreno, a Barcelona native, imports all the ingredients for his magnificent tapas dishes, which include lobster paella, chorizo-filled Spanish omelets and iberico ham. A small wine bar attached to the restaurant specializes in bottles from Spain, Argentina and Chile.
Upstairs in the same building is Sushi Oyama, whose sushi bar and private tatami rooms offer some of the best toro rolls in Shanghai. Book early on weekends, when both el-Willy and Sushi Oyama are usually packed.
An evening spent embracing Shanghai's past is not complete without a visit to the Bund, a promenade on the west side of the Huangpu River that offers stunning views across to glittering Pudong, the city's new business hub.
Dozens of the Bund's historic buildings have been restored, renewing the waterfront's splendor of decades past. Most recently, the Fairmont Peace Hotel, which as the Cathay was one of the city's most celebrated hotels during the 1930s, reopened its doors last year after a three-year refurbishment that its owners say cost about $64 million. Originally the property of real-estate tycoon Sir Victor Sassoon, it was the first major Art Deco building in a city that would become a world capital of the architectural style. With its stylish design and luxurious interiors, it drew the local elite and celebrities passing through town -- including, Mr. Cranley says, playwrights Noel Coward and George Bernard Shaw and film star Charlie Chaplin.
Also on the Bund, the Waldorf Astoria Hotel now occupies the building that a century ago was home to the Shanghai Club -- and includes a replica of the club's historic Long Bar, which, true to its name, was once declared Asia's longest. But its 34-meter length isn't its only distinction: With its marble columns, stained-glass windows and ornate wall panelling, all reproduced from archival photos, it creates an ambience so authentic that it's as if the bustling, seductive Shanghai of the 1920s never disappeared at all.
Just behind the Bund, however, are reminders that there is still more to be done to save the Shanghai of yesterday.
Walk east along the waterfront then cross back over the main thoroughfare up to the intersection of Fuzhou and Jiangxi Roads. Among four buildings dating back to the early 1900s is Hamilton House, another former Sassoon property that's now home to a restaurant, bar and lounge of the same name. The softly lit, Art Deco-inspired interiors make the 1934 building a great place for a nightcap or decadent dessert.
But next door, a building designed as a mirror image of Hamilton House is occupied by a run-down hotel, and across the street, another historic building, slated to become a new Shanghai history museum, sits empty. On the other corner is a Shanghai police building. Whether these architecturally significant structures will ever be restored remains unknown, says Richard Xavia, Hamilton House's owner.
'It's difficult to tell which direction Shanghai is going at the moment,' Mr. Xavia says. 'It is still so young. It is continuously moving.'
Lara Farrar
