原文:
Astringents areliquids applied to the face following cleansing.They comprise a broad categoryof formulations known by manyterms:toners, clarifying lotions, controllinglotions, protection lotions,skin fresheners, toning lotions, T-zone tonics,etc. Orig-inally,astringents were developed to remove alkaline soap scum fromtheface following cleansing with lye-based soaps and high–mineralcontent wellwater. The development of synthetic detergents(syndets) and public softenedwater systems greatly decreased theamount of post-washing residue. A new usefor astringents was foundwhen cleansing cream became a preferred method ofremoving facialcosmetics and environmental dirt. The astringent then becameaneffective product for removing the oily residue left behindfollowing cleansingcream use.
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Astringents contain a high concentration of alcohols, water, andfragrance functioning toremove any sebum left behind followingcleansing to produce a clean feel and topossibly deliver sometreatment product to the face.
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翻译:收敛剂用在洗脸之后,它们包括很多种类的配方,名称各有不同:爽肤水、清理液、调理液、保护液、凉肤剂、爽肤液、T区滋润水等。最初,收敛剂的开发目的是去除使用碱性基质的皂类产品和硬水(井水)一起洁面后形成的碱性皂基残留。后来开发的合成洗涤剂,以及公共供水系统极大减少了洗脸后的残留。而在使用乳液来卸除面部彩妆或环境污垢变得流行以后,人们发现了收敛剂的新用途:它可有效用于乳液卸妆、清洁后残留的油性物质的清理。
一些油性皮肤使用的收敛剂,含有高浓度酒精、水和芳香成分,可用于洁面不彻底而导致的一些皮脂的残留以带来干净的感觉,并且可能作为一些输送载体。
图24.1显示了用不同的清洁剂,对粉底产品卸妆或清洁后,用清洁布再次清除后的残留情况。
从由上述资料,可以看出:
我仍然坚持对于爽肤水的观点:
英文资料出处:Robert Baran, Howard I. Maibach. Textbookof CosmeticDermatology, London: Informa Healthcare, 2010:192.该章名称为“Astringents, masks, and ancillary skin careproducts”,作者为全球权威美容皮肤学专家Zoe Diana Draelos博士。
相关链接:化妆棉对皮肤的损伤作用之人体初步实验(http://blog.sina.com.cn/s/blog_52f4efa50101apcx.html)
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