I think the WorldTime references from Patek Philippe are major timepieces in this type ofcomplication and especially have a special place in the brand's history. Ithought it was an interesting topic, looking back where it comes from and howit evolved to become the major reference it is now.
For those who didn't know it already, the WorldTime mechanism design used in the first Patek Philippe reference was born fromthe work of an independent watchmaker named Louis Cottier (1894-1966). He has closely been working with PatekPhilippe at the time and helped bringing back to light this way of telling timewhich was forgotten since the very first examples were born during the 17thcentury, in table clocks.
Without further ado, here are the differentWorld Time references Patek Philippe has made.
THE 515
The first Patek reference of the modern era wasthe 515 with its recognizable rectangular Art Deco 25 x 42 mm case produced in1937 for a New-York client. The 28 cities dial is fixed (contrary to thedials on the next references) and based on the Greenwich time zone at noon. Thesingle crown sets the time and also the 24 hours ring.
Source:Huber&Banberry
The world time module developed by Louis Cottierwas added to the 12-120 caliber.
It was thought to be unique until lately, but itnow seems there are 3 examples known today.
THE 96 HU
This was a unique 30.5mm watch crafted in 1939showing 28 cities.
Edit: Thank you Dcc for this following update: " the 96 HU is not aunique watch as two distinct 96 HU's were sold in late 2011 by Christie’s andSotheby’s respectively"
Source:Sothebys
THE 130
A unique 130 reference was made by PatekPhilippe in 1939. It is a 33mm version with the addition of a chronograph andits 2 square pushers. The dial shows 24 cities but the watch doesn't work witha world time movement: only the dial, with Berlin as a base city at noon, showsdifferent time zones.
Source: O.Patrizzi
THE 542 HU
From 1938, around 30 cities are presented in arevolving bezel (manually turned to set the local city at noon) on this 28mmcase reference which around 4 examples are known today. It also has these very recognizablethick lugs.
Source: unknown
This is the smallest WT version ever produced byPatek Philippe.
THE 605HU
This was a 44mm pocket watch produced during the1940/60's period, showing 42 cities.
They appeared with a black dial...
...or cloisonné enamel dials (the first one isthe only WT model I saw pictures of with a complete world map, made possible thanksto the bigger size of course)...
...inaddition to the silver ones:
Source:Antiquorum
THE 1415HU
Then came the 1415 reference (31mm), producedfrom 1939 or 1940 in a quite few pieces, especially in yellow gold, until atleast 1950. The 28 cities are written on the large bezel which can turn to setthe local time. The first enamel dials (continents) appeared with thisreference.
Source:Antiquorum
It can also be recognized via its teardrop lugs.
One of the highest results at an auction for awrist-watch was reached for a platinum case and silver dial version.
Source:Antiquorum
The caliberused for these 1415 and 2523 references was the hand-wound 12-400.
Here is an enamelcloisonné version:
A veryfew 1416 HU (30 cities) with their specific"claw" lugs were produced in a very few examples.
Source:Antiquorum
After this small production, a probably unique version 1415-1 in35mm (33 cities) was produced in 1940 for the Doctor P. Schmidt with theaddition of a chronograph function. The dial also presents a Pulsometergraduated for "15 pulsations" as well as a "5 breathings"scale. The watch is now visible at the Patek Philippe Museum and remains quitefamous from many catalogue covers and from Patek Philippe's documentations.
Source: Salonqp.com
This specific reference was powered by a13" Valjoux ebauche base, beautifully decorated.
THE 2523HU
The 2523 reference came later in 35mm, witharound 40 cities, when it was proposed for sale from 1953 to 1965. Enamel cloisonnédials were also available with this reference. This model now reveals the diallayout which was used later in the 5110 and 5130 references, except the worldtime setting was activatedwith a second crown in the 2523 (against only 1 anda manually turned bezel in the previous 1415): one crown for the standard timedisplay; the other one for the time zone setting.
Source: Christies
Different versions were found with silverguilloché, translucent enamel or cloisonné enamel dials.
Here is a beautiful example of gold guilloché dial...
Source:Antiquorum
... another kind of guilloché in the center from these two pictures...
... or blue Enamel translucent center...
Source: Christies
... or Enamel dial with North America's map...
Source:Antiquorum
...and Europe...
More details on the 2523 following this link towards DCC's article: www.watchprosite.com=
THE 5110
The 5110 (24 time zones) which was producedbetween 2000 and 2005 housed the fine 240 caliber (in the 240/188 spec.) forthe first time as a World Time reference. It required 4 years of development.It is also a switch from a manual to an automatic wound movement.
The main visible evolution when setting thelocal city is that it wasn't set by means of a second crown at 9 o'clockanymore but by a pusher at 10.
This new mechanism allows the owner to set thehour hand (jumping from one hour to the next one for each activation), withoutmoving the minute hand and thus ensures a better accuracy when set.
Borrowing the 5127's case and its specific crownguards and round bezel, the 5110 has a delightful guilloché dial inspirationcoming from the previous generations.
From several of our members, here are somepictures we had the pleasure to admire on our forum.
To start with, the white gold version...
...here is the 5110P...
Credit: MarkIn Paris from PuristSPro (thanks to the owner!)
... and the 5110R (my personal favorite)...
Credit: MarkIn Paris from PuristSPro (thanks to the owner again!)
There have been a few limited editions forTaipe?, Doha, Münster or Singapore (on which the city's name appears in red).
THE 5130
The 5130 we have today was born in 2006 and theevolved version of the 240 caliber launched in the 5110 for the first time alsopowers the current 5130 and 5131 models.
The main differences are the case's size (from37 to 39mm) though you won't notice any aesthetic changes on the case, bezel orlugs. It is just a more up-to-date size. The center guilloché has been replacedby a sunray decoration and applied hour markers.
Credit:Foversta
Here as well, there have been a few limitededitions (Munich, Shangha?...) as well as a bracelet version.
You'll see here below 2 versions of the Shangha? edition (in red and whitegold, 25 pieces each only)...
...as well as a picture of the Mecca version (Platinum, 150 pieces)...
... and a different guilloché pattern on the Munich edition...
...a Jerusalem version that seems to have been edited in 3 pieces only...
...or a Canadian version made for the 75th anniversary of Brinkhaus, the only AD in western Canada at 20 pieces in RG and 20 in WG only (thank you Vwong for the info)...
THE 5131ENAMEL REFERENCES
This generation of Patek Philippe World Timealso announced the return of the enamel decoration on the central disk with the5131 models. Each of the versions has been awarded a specific part of theworld.
- Jwith the Atlantic region:
Credit:CH9698
- Gwith Europe/Asia continent:
and R(presented at last Basel fair) with the Pacific area:
Credit:Bruno.M1
Don't forget of course the 30 (? I read manydifferent numbers) pieces limited edition dedicated to the celebration of Patek Philippe's 175th Anniversary, inwhite gold and showing the Geneva Lake.
Or the 2012 unique Children Charity auction:
THE 5575G- 175th ANNIVERSARY
Last but not least, the World Time model withmoonphase which makes it a very exclusive version compared to the previousgenerations: the 5575G.
Credit:Bruno.M1
The 5230
This is the latest generation of World Time only reference in the Patek Philippe collection, launched in 2016 in replacment of the 5130. More masculine, more contemporary with a fantastic new guilloché pattern and updated cities ring.
In red gold...
CONCLUSION
As you noticed, Patek Philippe's World Timepieces allowed being able to read the time in a glance, without additionalaction on the pushers or the crown. The day/night ring provides also the 24hours thus allowing reading time from other places of the world in a clever andpractical way.
Patek Philippe has mastered, as in many othercomplication aspects, this original World Time layout and has permit to bringmany evolutions since the first "modern" models in the 1930's.
As it will be time to celebrate the New Year allover the world soon, I think it is quite a good subject to cross the time linewith.
联系客服
