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The maker of chefs
大厨之师
本文英文部分选自经济学人Obituary版块
Paul Bocuse, popularly acclaimed as the best French chef since Escoffier, died on January 20th, aged 91
保罗·博古斯（Paul Bocuse）,是继埃斯科菲以来法国公认的烹饪界的泰斗，于1月20日去世，享年91岁。
In impish mood, Paul Bocuse would roll up the sleeve of his whites to reveal, on his left bicep, a tattoo of a Gallic cock crowing. An American GI had done it for him during the war, and it seemed just right for his subsequent career as France’s most celebrated chef. This was a man who was called the pope, even God, by lowlier meal-makers, and whose death, said Emmanuel Macron, had chefs everywhere weeping in their kitchens.
保罗·博古斯心情愉悦时，会像孩子似的常把白袖子高高卷起，左二头肌上露出高卢雄鸡的纹身。二战中，一名美国大兵给他纹的这只雄鸡，似乎也恰巧预示了他在之后的职业生涯中将成为法国最著名的厨师。技艺不如他的厨师都称他为美食界的“教皇”，甚至是“上帝”；法国总统埃马纽埃尔·马克龙（Emmanuel Macron）发表悼词（在推特上），他的去世让全国各个地方的厨师都在厨房里痛哭哀叹。
He was the most decorated of them all, and not simply with Michelin stars, of which his restaurant, L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges “Paul Bocuse”, near Lyons, had held three for over 50 years. (To match his three stars he had, for almost as long, three women, fairly harmoniously; his appetites were large.) With his whites he usually wore the tricolore collar of a Meilleur Ouvrier de France, and occasionally his Légion d’Honneur on its red ribbon. On that glorious evening in 1975, when his medal had been pinned on by the president, they had sat down to his own invention, black-truffle soup VGE, for Valéry Giscard d’Estaing. It was served ever after in his restaurant, in specially inscribed white bowls.
作为厨师，他获得了最多的勋章（荣誉），他的位于里昂郊外的餐厅L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges，连续五十多年获得米其林三星餐厅的至高荣誉（和他的三星级餐厅相匹配的是，他有三个相处非常和谐的女人以及他的欲望。）他经常穿着白色工作服，戴上代表法国最佳手工艺者的三色领子，偶尔在红丝带上别上法国荣誉军团勋章。1975年那个荣耀的夜晚，瓦莱里·吉斯卡尔·德斯坦（Valéry Giscard d’Estaing）总统亲自为博古斯戴上荣誉军团勋章，并一同享用了博古斯为他创制的佳肴：“VGE”黑松露酥皮汤(“soupe aux truffes VGE ”)。自此之后，博古斯的餐厅内开始供应这道大餐，每次都盛在专门的白瓷碗内。
The cockerel proclaimed his patriotism, as if it were in any doubt; he was ever the small boy who loved to run after marching bands on the 14th of July, shouting and singing. For what country was better provisioned than France? Her shores were washed with a seething bouillabaisse of fish, her gardens laden with good things; Charolais cattle grazed the fields, chickens from Bresse pecked in farmyards. And the wines! He was France’s most fervent ambassador, setting up restaurants in America and Japan, and providing food both for Disney’s French enterprises and for Concorde—always taking his own ingredients with him, to be sure they were the best.！
博古斯纹了雄鸡来表明自己的爱国情怀，像是有人怀疑他不爱国似的。孩童时代的他曾经喜欢在7月14日追逐着游行乐队，呐喊着，歌唱着。还有比法国更富足的国家吗？用来做法式鱼羹的鱼成群地被冲到她的海岸上；她的花园长满上等食材；夏洛来牛在田地里吃草，布雷斯的鸡在庭院里啄食。还有葡萄酒！博古斯是法国最热心的大使，在美国和日本都开了餐厅，并为迪士尼的法国企业和协和飞机供应食物，并且总是加入自己公司的食材，以确保他们是最好的。
每年的7月14日法国国庆日，法国人都要隆重纪念这象征自由和革命的日子。这一天夜晚埃菲尔铁塔为火树银花所映衬，成为欢乐海洋，与法国国庆日相关的历史事件是 法国人民攻占巴士底狱。
Nitrogen, pfuit!
He could crow about French cooking, too. From Carême to Maître Escoffier to himself, there was none better. Cuisine classique had become over-fussy, but its fundamentals, butter, cream and wine, were so magical that nothing could replace them. (A dish of just-made fromage frais with cream was, for him, pure joy.) With a little simplifying, more emphasis on freshness, French cuisine would again be unbeatable. He signed on briefly to nouvelle cuisine, but in the end it bored him; nothing on the plate, lots on the bill, was his conclusion. Instead his menus offered the grand, substantial dishes of the decades: duck with foie gras, pike quenelles, fillet of beef Rossini, coq au vin. The only inventions of his own were the truffle soup and sea bass in pastry. He was no fad-follower, no fiddler. Molecular cuisine, bof! Nitrogen, pfuit! Give him some sausage and a glass of good Mâcon, in the company of friends, any day.
他也会夸耀法国烹饪。从烘焙大师到主宰者再到他自己，没有更好的了。烹饪变得过于挑剔，但它的基本原料，黄油、奶油和葡萄酒非常有魔力，所以无可取代。（在他看来，奶油配干酪这么简单的一道菜，带来了纯粹的乐趣。）烹饪流程简化一些，食材更加新鲜一些，那么法国菜将再一次战无不胜。在新菜系上，他也简化了签名，但是最终这让他觉得很枯燥。他的结论是盘子里空空如也，账单上满满当当。相反，几十年来他的菜单提供了美味丰盛的菜肴:鸭和鹅肝、派克油炸鸡肉、切片牛排、红酒烩鸡。他自己的唯一发明是松露汤和海鲈鱼点心。他既不赶时尚，也不拉小提琴。分子料理，bof！氮，pfuit！有香肠，有羊肉火腿，再加上朋友相伴，足够让他快乐一整天。
作为“新法餐”的革新者， “保罗先生”的烹饪理念可以说是推动了近代西餐文化的发展。“烹饪和音乐一样，在形式上很难有所创新，更多的是在于诠释。”博古斯对于烹饪心得如是阐述。这位善于发现，敢于创新的老人，在厨师生涯中最大的贡献要数自主创立一种“新式烹调法”。与传统的埃斯科菲耶风格——浓重、油腻、辛辣烹饪方式不同，博古斯的新式烹调注重保持菜品的原汁原味，让食物更清淡，更新鲜，也更美观。时代在进步，人们的生活习惯也在发生变化，新式烹调法前所未有地动摇和重塑了法国的烹饪文化，越来越多的厨师跟随他采用新式烹调法，也成为当今厨艺文化的一种标杆。
What made him most content, though, were two apparently smaller things. The first was the rescue of his family name. The Bocuses had been chefs since the 18th century, always in that little auberge on the Saône: the house he had been born in, with the murmur of the river outside. There he caught fish, and in that kitchen, at nine, he had first served up veal kidneys with puréed potatoes. But the restaurant had been sold, and the name lost, by his grandfather, and not until 1959 could he get the building back. He won his first Michelin star when there were still paper cloths on the tables. Gradually it became splendid, with crimson shutter sand green paint, a ceremonial courtyard and much brass. Inside, preserved as a shrine, was his grandmother’s kitchen, with its battery of copper pans; and the name “Paul Bocuse” marched in neon across the roof.
然而两件微不足道的事却让他最为满意。第一件事就是营救了他的家族的姓氏。博古斯家族从18世纪开始就一直在索恩河边的小旅馆里做主厨，这家小旅馆外面围绕着一条河，伴随着潺潺细流，小博古斯出生在这里。小时候，他在小河流里钓鱼，九岁那年，他在这个厨房里烹饪了自己的第一道菜，牛内脏配土豆浓汤。但是后来博古斯的爷爷卖掉了餐馆，博古斯家族姓氏也随之消失，直到1959年，博古斯才把这栋建筑买回。他赢得第一个米其林星级评价的时候，餐馆里桌子上还铺着纸做的桌布。慢慢地，这家店的装潢越来越好，店里有了深红色的百叶窗和绿色的植物，典雅的庭院和许多黄铜制品。在里面是他祖母的厨房，布置地好像一块圣地，配备着一整套的铜制铁锅；楼顶上霓虹灯照耀着店名“保罗博古斯”。
The second source of pride was easier to overlook. By the 21st century, celeber the war, chefs toiled and broiled behind the scenes, while the owners patrolled the dining rooms. At La Mrity chefs were everywhere, foraging, posing, fronting restaurants, writing books. Yet when he began, just aftère Brazier’s in Lyon, as an apprentice, he had to feed the pigs and do the laundry, as well as bring in the coal. Perhaps his chief accomplishment was to make chefs emerge, proud of themselves.
第二件让人骄傲的事情却更容易被忽略。到了现在的21世纪，名厨可以说随处可见，家喻户晓，他们总是在忙着到处奔波，曝光，代言餐厅，写书。但是在博古斯开始他的厨师生涯的那个年代，战争刚刚结束，那个时候厨师们还只能在后台勤劳苦干，而餐厅老板们却在大厅里闲逛。在里昂的布拉泽，博古斯曾在这里做过厨师学徒，他得喂猪、洗衣服，还要搬运煤炭。博古斯取得的主要成就或许就是使得厨师们崭露头角，以自己的职业为荣。
They had every reason to be, as artisans who loved their craft. A good chef like himself worked (and worked, and worked!) by instinct, accepting that a recipe would be subtly different every time. That final seasoning, with the tips of the fingers, was a beautiful gesture, his signing of the dish. And once it was done, the chef should leave the kitchen, greet the diners, present what he had made. Hence the many portraits of him in his restaurant, so that even when he was away, or no longer cooked himself, he was there. He positively encouraged his cooks to open their own restaurants, and was delighted to welcome 650 students each year to his chef’s school at écully. Even young women came—though he preferred women in bed, and smelling of Chanel rather than cooking fat.
他们有充分的理由对自己的作品自豪，就像工匠热爱自己的手艺一样。一个好厨师，比如他自己就是基于直觉工作（工作，再工作），接受每次食谱都略有不同的事实。最后的“调味料”，是他飘逸地用指尖勾勒出对这道美食的签名。这步完成后，厨师就会离开厨房，向食客问好，并献上自己做出的美食。他的餐厅中有许多他的画像，因此即使他人不在店里，或他不再主厨，但他仿佛从未离开过。他积极鼓励手下的厨师开办自己的餐厅；他还在埃居利开了厨师学校，每年有650位学生来此学习，他都热情欢迎，即便是那些年轻的女性——虽然他更喜欢床上的女人，闻着香奈儿香水的味道，而不是食用油的味道。
A chef’s sense of his own importance began, he insisted, with the uniform: the calot or the tall toque, the immaculate white jacket and the apron, the clothes of his trade. That moment when, preparing for his entrée en scène, he tied his apron ribbons round his capacious waist, was the proudest part of all. And he might just have time too to roll up his sleeve, flash a smile and cry “Cocorico!”, in case anyone doubted who, and which country, ruled the culinary world.
他坚持认为，一个厨师穿上厨师制服（三角帽或长帽、洁白无瑕的大褂和围裙——这个行业的行头）的那一刻，要意识到自身的重要性。每当准备烹饪时，他最为骄傲的就是在自己宽大的腰部系上围裙。如果有任何人质疑是谁以及哪个国家统领着烹饪的世界，他可能也会卷起袖子，脸上露出笑容，嚷着“Cocorico！”
Corcorico是法语中公鸡叫声的拟声词，在法语中表示胜利的欢呼。
翻译组：
Yi, 女，财务民工，经济学人爱好者
Cece，女，消防工作者，经济学人爱好者
Shirly，女，笔译研究生，经济学人爱好者
校核组：
Lucia，女，翻译学硕士三年制，经济学人爱好者
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