Currently there are almost 250 sports routes, 8 trad routes, 5 multipitch routes, and 3 two-pitch routes.
The topos were last updated February 2020 and are almost complete. New routes are going up every week.
This is a basic guide, which will be updated in full until a time comes when it is worth making a printed edition.Except for the initial 30 or so routes, which were bolted by a team sponsored by Kailas, all the routes have been bolted by individuals with gear bought at their own expense or with donations from visiting climbers.If you would like to contribute to the development (even just enough for one or two bolts is useful) then your donation will be gratefully received.
Most of the crags are a short hike from the Stone Drum House. However, if visiting the Diamond Wall, or the Water Wall it is easier to take a 4km taxi ride followed by a 5 minute walk to the Diamond Wall, or a 20m walk to the Water Wall. A taxi to the drop off for both walls is 20 yuan.
Click the map for a bigger image.
Developed by the Shigu Climbing Base and in a beautiful location by the river. It takes about 40 minutes to walk there straight along the road. There are now four parts - the right wall with shorter tufa climbs, the middle wall with some short climbs for beginners, the left wall which has long crimpy routes up to 35m long, and a back wall behind the middle wall with a few shaded routes.
One of the highlights of Shigu and not to be missed. The crag gets full sun from 11 or 12am and so in the hotter months you should try and go early morning or late afternoon.
Routes 4 5 7 8 12 13 14 15 and 16 require a 70m rope.
| Route Name | Bolter 开线者 | First Ascent 首攀 | Grade 难度 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ? | ? | ? | 6a+ / 5.10c |
| 2 | 打地鼠 Wack-a-Mole | 邱江 Paul | 邱江 Paul | 6a+ / 5.10c |
| 3 | ? | 邱江 Paul | 于静 Yu JIng | 6a / 5.10b |
| 4 | 一十百 one ten a hundred | 邱江 Paul | 邱江 Paul | 6c+ / 5.11c |
| 5 | P1 - ? Extension - The Bicycle Incident | 邱江 Paul Marcos Costa + Enzo Oddo | 邱江 Paul Marcos Costa | p1 - 6a+ / 5.10c p2 - 7c+ / 5.13a |
| 6 | ? | 邱江 Paul | ? | 6a+ / 5.10c |
| 7 | Happy New Year | Marcos Costa + Enzo Oddo | Enzo Oddo | p1 - 6a+ / 5.10c p2 - 7b+ / 5.12c |
| 8 | Triple B Team | Marcos Costa + Enzo Oddo | Enzo Oddo | 8a+ / 5.13c |
| 9 | ? | 邱江 Paul | Enzo Oddo | 7c+ / 5.13a |
| 10 | 肥肠俱乐部 Sausage Club | 邱江 Paul | 家尧 Jia Yao | 7c+ / 5.13a |
| 11 | 征服怪兽 Subdue the Shapeshifter | 飞沙 Fei Sha | 小乔 Xiao Qiao | 5c / 5.10a |
| 12 | 喊破喉咙 Yell Hoarse | 邱江 Paul | 邱江 Paul Enzo Oddo | p1 - 5+ / 5.10a p2 - 8a+ / 5.13c |
| 13 | 蓝色港湾 Blue Harbour | 家尧 JiaYao | p1 - 心伦法师 p2 - 小侯 Xiao Hou | p1 - 6a+ / 5.10c p2 - 8a / 5.13b |
| 14 | Searching For No More | Wang Er 王二 Left Extension - 家尧Jiayao Right Extension - Enzo Oddo | Wang Er 王二 Left Extension - 家尧Jiayao Right Extension - Enzo Oddo | 7a / 5.11d 7c+ / 5.13a 8b+ / 5.14a |
| 15 | 6 Beers a Day Keep the Doctor Away | Marcos Costa + Enzo Oddo | Roland Hemetzberger | 8a / 5.13b |
| 16 | Baijiu Creation | Marcos Costa + Enzo Oddo | Marcos Costa | 7a+ / 5.12a |
| 17 | 3cm Hard! | Marcos Costa + Enzo Oddo | ? | 5a / 5.9 |
| 18 | ? | ? | ? | 4+ / 5.8 |
| 19 | ? | ? | ? | 4 / 5.7 |
| Route Name | Bolter 开线者 | First Ascent 首攀 | Grade 难度 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ? | 邱江 Paul | ? | 5a / 5.9 |
| 2 | ? | 邱江 Paul | ? | 5a / 5.9 |
| 3 | ? | 邱江 Paul | ? | 5b / 5.10a |
| 4 | ? | 邱江 Paul | ? | 6a / 5.10b |
| 5 | ? | 邱江 Paul | ? | 6b / 5.10d |
| 6 | ? | 邱江 Paul | ? | 6a+ / 5.10c |
| 7 | ? | 邱江 Paul | ? | 6a / 5.10b |
| Route Name 名称 | Bolter 开线者 | FA 首攀 | Grade 难度 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 我爱石鼓 I love Shigu | 张勇 Zhang Yong | 啊玺 A'Xi | 6b / 5.10d |
| 2 | 擦干血迹 Wipe the blood stains | 张勇 Zhang Yong | 菜花 Cai Hua | 6a+ / 5.10c |
| 3 | 一个核桃 Walnut | 邱江 Paul | 张勇 Zhang Yong | 6b+ / 5.11a |
| 4 | ? | 邱江 Paul | 飞沙 Fei Sha | 6b+ / 5.11a |
| 5 | 光芒 | 邱江 Paul | 邱江 Paul | 6a+ / 5.10c |
| 6 | ？ | 邱江 Paul | 邱江 Paul | 7a+ / 5.12a |
| 7 | ? | ? | ? | 7b / 5.12b |
| 8 | 生日快乐 Happy Birthday | 邱江 Paul | 于静 Yu Jing | 5c / 5.10a |
| 9 | 红珊瑚 Red Coral | 邱江 Paul | 王影 Wang Ying | 5c / 5.10a |
| 10 | 老炮 Lao Pao | 邱江 Paul | 邱江 Paul | 6b+ / 5.11a |
| 11 | 冬日暖阳 Winter Sun | 邱江 Paul | 邱江 Paul | 6b+ / 5.11a |
| 12 | 海洋之心 Heart of the Sea | 邱江 Paul | 邱江 Paul | 6b / 5.10d |
| 13 | ? | Marcos | ? | 5+ / 5.10a |
| 14 | ? | Marcos | ? | 5+ / 5.10a |
| 15 | ? | ? | ? | ? |
The main wall has long routes on high quality rock.
Access - It is no longer possible to reach the crag from where it is sign posted on the road. Instead you should follow the signposted track towards the Diamond Wall. Cross the river over the new steel bridge and turn right following the river. Just as the path enters the woods there is a waterfall with some paintings of nature spirits. Follow the obvious trail until you see a bamboo gate and the perimeter fence of a property. Turn left and go around the edge of the fence. The path becomes clearer and there are some ropes which lead the way up the hill to the crag.
Multi-pitch - There is also a worthwhile 4 pitch route following interesting crack and tufa features. Pitches 1 and 2 can be joined, so can pitches 3 and 4. However, it's better to rappel in four. A 60m rope is sufficient.
Thanks to Paul 邱江 for his hard work bolting. I'll try and get the missing info from him and complete the topo as soon as I have time.
| Route Name 名称 | Bolter 开线者 | FA 首攀 | Length 高度 | Grade 难度 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ? | 邱江 Paul | ? | 25m | 6b / 5.10d |
| 2 | ? | 邱江 Paul | ? | 25m | 6a+ / 5.10c |
| 3 | ? | 邱江 Paul | ? | 18m | 5c / 5.10a |
| 4 | ? | 邱江 Paul | ? | 12m | 5.9? |
| 5 | 糖三角 Sugar Triangle | 邱江 Paul | 周磊 Zhou Lei | 12m | 5a / 5.9 |
| 6 | 小气鬼 Stingy ghost | 邱江 Paul | 周磊 Zhou Lei | 15m | 4+ / 5.8 |
| 7 | 无影脚 Shadowless kick | 邱江 Paul | p1 - 周磊 Zhou Lei p3 to p4 - ?? | p1 - 15m p2 - 25m p3 - 20m p4 - 20m | p1 - 5.7 / 4 p2 - 5.10a / 5c p3 - 5.10c / 6a+ p4 - 5.10c / 6a+ |
| 8 | ? | 邱江 Paul | ? | 20m | ? |
| 9 | ? | 邱江 Paul | ? | p1 - 15m p2 - 23m | p1 - 5.7 / 4 p2 - 7b/5.12b |
| 10 | 香樟树 Camphor tree | 邱江 Paul | 邱江 Paul | p1 - 30m, p2 - 15m | 6c+ / 5.11c |
| 11 | 疯狂的马克思Mad Marcos | Marcos Costa | Marcos Costa | 36m | 7b / 5.12b |
| 12 | 黄杨木Boxwood | 邱江 Paul | 邱江 Paul | 36m | 7a+ / 5.12a |
| 13 | ? | 邱江 Paul | ? | 30m | 5.12? |
| 14 | ? | 邱江 Paul | ? | 25m | 5.12? |
| 15 | ? | 邱江 Paul | ? | 20m | 6b+ / 5.11a |
| 16 | ? | 邱江 Paul | ? | 12m | 5c / 5.10a |
| 17 | ? | 邱江 Paul | ? | 15m | 5a / 5.9 |
| 18 | ? | 邱江 Paul | ? | 20m | 7a / 5.11d |
| 19 | 坏梨子 Bad Pear | 邱江 Paul | 邱江 Paul | 15m | 7b / 5.12b |
| 20 | 借火 Borrow a Light | 邱江 Paul | 邱江 Paul | 17m | 6b / 5.10d |
The first routes were put up in January 2017 by Marcos Costa and Enzo Oddo.
It's clearly visible looking out from the cave up and left. From the cave cross the river over the pipes. Follow the track up to the quarry. From there the path is clear but the final part to the crag is a little bit of a scramble.
| Route Name 名称 | Grade 难度 | |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Rap Slayer | Open Project |
| 2 | Chillin' Like a Villain | Open Project |
| 3 | AK47 is the Tool | Open Project |
| 4 | Trump Le Biscuit | Open Project |
| 5 | Evening Rape | 8a / 5.13b |
| 6 | Sponsored by Zhoulei | 7c+ / 5.13a |
| 7 | Sponsored by Xiaoliu | 8a+ / 5.13c |
| 8 | Sexy Green Top | 7b / 5.12b |
Excellent and varied face climbing with massive multi-pitch potential.
| Route Name 名称 | Bolter 开线者 | FA首攀 | Length 高度 | Grade 难度 | Notes 备注 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Open project | 邱江 Paul | 37m | 7c / 5.12d ?? | Open project | |
| 2 | ? | 邱江 Paul | 邱江 Paul | 35m | 6c+ / 5.11c | |
| 3 | ? | 邱江 Paul | ? | 37m | 7a / 5.11d | |
| 4 | ? | 邱江 Paul | ? | P1 30m P2 25m | P1 5.8 P2 5.9 | Use the anchor of route 2 to get down. Needs a 70m rope. |
| 5 | ? | 邱江 Paul | ？ | 25m | 5+ / 5.10a | |
| 6 | 钟鼓齐鸣 | 于静和张晓柳 | 于静 Yu Jing | 24m | 6b+ / 5.11a | |
| 7 | 金汤力 Jin Tang Li | 于静和张晓柳 | 于静 Yu Jing | 26m | 6b+ / 5.11a | |
| 8 | Red Velvet 红绒 | Reuben Greenbank | 蒋俊文 Jiang Junwen | 25m | 7a / 5.11d | |
| 9 | Closed Project | Reuben Greenbank | 20m | 7b / 5.12b | ||
| 10 | 桃花舞Peach Flower Dance | Reuben Greenbank | 李楠 Seven | 20m | 6a / 5.10b | |
| 11 | 蘑菇头Mushroom Head | Reuben Greenbank | 杨斌 Yang Bin | 15m | 6b+ / 5.11a | |
| 12 | 义诊 Free Dental Clinic | Reuben Greenbank | 丁舒君 Ding Shujun | 17m | 6a / 5.10b | The grade is height dependent. |
| 13 | 暴晒十月 Baked in the October Sun | 于静和张晓柳 | 张晓柳 Zhang Xiao Liu | 20m | 6a+ / 5.10c | |
| 14 | 丽江飘来的雨 | 于静和张晓柳 | 于静 Yu Jing | 22m | 6b / 5.10d | |
| 15 | The First 第一个 | 于静和张晓柳 | 张晓柳 Zhang Xiao Liu | 25m | 6c / 5.11b | |
| 16 | 血草莓 Blood Strawberry | 于静和张晓柳 | 于静 Yu Jing | 20m | 6b+ / 5.11a | |
| 17 | 冠状病毒 Coronavirus | Reuben Greenbank | 蒋俊文 Jiang Junwen | 20m | 6c+ / 5.11c | |
| 18 | The Come Back | Reuben Greenbank | Joe Langwald | 20m | 7a+ / 5.12a |
Bolted by Paul 邱江 from the the Shigu Climbing Base.
| Route Name 名称 | Bolter 开线者 | FA首攀 | Length 高度 | Grade 难度 | Notes 备注 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ? | 邱江 Paul | 邱江 Paul | 25m | 5 / 5.9 | |
| 2 | ? | 邱江 Paul | 邱江 Paul | 20m | 4 / 5.7 | |
| 3 | ? | 邱江 Paul | 邱江 Paul | 15m | 4 / 5.7 | |
| 4 | ? | 邱江 Paul | 邱江 Paul | 15m | 4+ / 5.8 | |
| 5 | ? | 邱江 Paul | ? | ? | 5.12? | |
| 6 | ? | 邱江 Paul | ? | ? | 5.12? | |
| 7 | ? | 邱江 Paul | ? | ? | 5.12? | |
| 8 | ? | 邱江 Paul | ? | ? | 5.12? | |
| 9 | ? | 邱江 Paul | 邱江 Paul | 15m | 4+ / 5.8 | |
| 10 | ? | 邱江 Paul | 邱江 Paul | 40m | 7a / 5.11d | Finishes on a big ledge with a fixed rope. If your rope is short ,you can rap off to the anchor on route 9. |
| 11 | ? | 邱江 Paul | 邱江 Paul | 20m | 6a / 5.10b | |
| 12 | ? | 邱江 Paul | 邱江 Paul | 18m | 5+ / 5.10a | |
| 13 | ? | 邱江 Paul | 邱江 Paul | P1 18m P2 20m | P1 5.9 P2 5.9 | After the top anchor there are three more bolts which take you to the ledge. |
| 14 | ? | 邱江 Paul | 邱江 Paul | 17m | 5 / 5.9 |
The routes require traditional protection but have bolted anchors.
| Route Name 名称 | FA 首攀 | Grade 难度 | Notes 备注 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Scarab Beetle | Reuben Greenbank | 6a+ / 5.10c | This line is 33m long. You need a 70m rope to get down in one. If your rope is shorter you can use the anchor on route 2. |
| 2 | ? | Eben Farnworth | 6a+ / 5.10c |
| Route Name 名称 | FA 首攀 | Grade 难度 | Notes 备注 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 3+ / 5.6 | A good route for beginners. | ||
| 2 Pitch 1 | 3+ / 5.6 | A good route for beginners. | ||
| 2 Pitch 2 | 4 / 5.7 | Make a traditional anchor on top to bring up the second. There is a rappel anchor on the face. Use the anchors on the face climbs to get down safely. |
On the right side of the cave and close to the road there are a few more routes.
| Route Name 名称 | FA 首攀 | Grade 难度 | |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Renegade Master | ? | 8a / 5.13b |
| 2 | Open Project | 8a / 5.13b ? | |
| 3 | 生活在别处 Life is somewhere else | 陈柯亮 | 7c+ / 5.13a |
| 4 | ? | ? | 5+ / 5.9 |
| 5 | ? | ? | 6a+ 5.10c |
| 6 | ? | ? | 4+ / 5.8 |
This was the first sector to be developed. Most of the routes were bolted in June 2014 by a team sponsored by Kailas. Since then, there's been a lot more development. It's a really cool feature and all the routes are worth climbing.
Routes 12 and 13 are the 2 routes starting close together on the right edge of the cave. Routes 20 and 21 go up through a big tufa system. Using these as a guide, it should be possible to count the lines and find the route you want.
| Route Name 名称 | Bolter 开线者 | FA 首攀 | Grade 难度 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Under the moon | Marcos / 阿成 | 阿亮 A'Liang | 7a+ / 5.12a |
| 2 | Over the rainbow | Marcos / 阿成 | 张勇 Zhang Yong | 7b+ / 5.12c |
| 3 | 吃饱了 I'm full | Marcos | Sylvain Audibert | 7c / 5.12d |
| 4 | ? | Marcos | 大魏 Da Wei | 7c+ / 5.13a |
| 5 | Travel Diary | Marcos / 龙少 | 阿成 A'Cheng | 8a / 5.13b |
| 6 | Schlong Again | Extension - Enzo Oddo | Enzo Oddo | 8b+ / 5.14a |
| 7 | 让我想一想 | Marcos / Eben | Mark 23/06/15 | 8a / 5.13b |
| 8 | 长江第一湾 First bend of the Yangtze | 邱江 ／ 龙少 | 大魏 Da Wei 30/11/2015 | 8a / 5.13b |
| 9 | P1 - 穹顶之下 Under the Dome Extension - 毒刺 Poison Sting | 张勇 Enzo Oddo | P1 - 张勇 Zhang Yong Extension - 家尧 Jia Yao | P1 - 7a+ Extension - 8b / 5.13d |
| 10 | 晕头转向 Disoriented | Eben / Alberto | 家尧 Jia Yao | 7b / 5.12b |
| 11 | 小粒的勇气 A Grain of Courage | 赵四 ／ 八月 | 大魏 Da Wei | 7b+ / 5.12c |
| 12 | 石鼓的院子 Shigu Courtyard | 赵四 ／ 八月 | 赵四 Zhao Si | 6c+ / 5.11c |
| 13 | 离别 Farewell | 赵四 ／ 八月 | 裂缝 | 6c / 5.11b |
| 14 | 寻岩二十年 Twenty Year Rock Search | 张勇 ／ 李兰 | 张勇 Zhang Yong | 6c / 5.11b |
| 15 | 拉肚子难度表 | 张勇 ／ 周磊 | 赵四 Zhao Si | 6b+ / 5.11a |
| 16 | 猪鼻子 Pig nose | 邱江 | 大魏 Da Wei | 6c+ / 5.11c |
| 17 | ？ | 阿刚 | Enzo Oddo ？？ | 7c/ 5.12d |
| 18 | 完美搭档 Perfect Partner | 赵四 ／ 李兰 | 大魏 Da Wei | 7b+/ 5.12c |
| 19 | A Reminder | 赵四 ／ 板凳熊 | 阿成 A'Cheng | 7a / 5.11d |
| 20 | ? | 王二 | 王二 | 6b / 5.10d |
| 21 | 搞左了 | Eben Farnworth | Eben Farnworth | 6b / 5.10d |
| 22 | The Pinch | 王二 | 王二 Wang Er | 6c+ / 5.11c |
| 23 | 五千块 Five Thousand Yuan | Eben ／ 周磊 | Eben Farnworth | 6c+ / 5.11c |
| 24 | ? | 张勇 ／ Eben | 张勇 Zhang Yong | 6b+ / 5.11a |
| 25 | ? | 张勇 ／ Eben | 张勇 Zhang Yong | 6b+ / 5.11a |
| 26 | Ants in Your Pants | Eben Farnworth | Reuben Greenbank | 6b / 5.10d |
| 27 | Hiland Warrior | 王二 | 王二 Wang Er | 6c+ / 5.11c |
| 28 | 奴役之路 Chained to the Road | 张勇 ／ 今今 | 板凳熊 | 5c / 5.10a |
| 29 | 寻找巨岩 In Search of Big Walls | 张勇 ／ 今今 | 小爽 | 6a+ / 5.10c |
This wall is about 100m left of the cave. You can reach it by a path from the road, or from the cave follow the path through the bamboo. The routes on the left are very varied, including some really nice technical face climbing, and the routes on the right are a good introduction to steep tufa climbing.
| Route Name 名称 | Bolter 开线者 | FA 首攀 | Grade 难度 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Lucy got Loose Extension - Chasing Rainbows | Reuben Greenbank | Rachel Hemingway Reuben Greenbank | 5b / 5.9 6b+ / 5.11a |
| 2 | 魔都岩者Magic City Climber | Reuben Greenbank | 章鱼 Zhang Yu | 6a+ / 5.10c |
| 3 | Rainbows and Unicorns | Reuben Greenbank | Reuben Greenbank | 6b+ / 5.11a |
| 4 | Cheeky Monkey | Reuben Greenbank | Reuben Greenbank | 6c+ / 5.11c |
| 5 | 老猪的礼物 An Old Pig's Gift | Tyler Wellman | Cauli 花菜 | 6b / 5.10d |
| 6 | Take Xiao Xiong for a Walk | Reuben Greenbank | Kevin Blasko | 6a+ / 5.10c |
| 7 | 安乐窝 An Le Wo | Reuben Greenbank | Ling | 5b / 5.9 |
| 8 | Nectarine Induced Coma | Reuben Greenbank | Jonny | 6c / 5.11b |
| 9 | 小心竹钉 | 苏峰 / 赵洪舟 | 苏峰 | 6b+ / 5.11a |
| 10 | 粉红色的回忆 | 邱江 ／ 黄超 | 邱江 | 6b+ / 5.11a |
| 11 | 下午地狱 | 邱江 ／ 黄超 | ？ | 7a+ / 5.12a |
| 12 | 一荤一素 One meat, one veg | Reuben Greenbank | 饼饼王羽欣 Bingbing | 6c+ / 5.11c |
| 13 | 飞天鼠的阳台 | 张晓柳 ／ 黄超 | 赵四 | 7a / 5.11d |
| 14 | 紫色传奇 | 张晓柳 ／ 苏峰 | 大魏 | 7b / 5.12b |
| 15 | 烈日骄阳 | 苏峰 ／ 张晓柳 | Marcos | 6c+ / 5.11c |
| 16 | 早午饭后 After Brunch | Reuben Greenbank | 王子薇 Vi | 6c / 5.11b |
| 17 | 穿过你的黑发的我的手该放哪儿 | 苏峰 ／ 赵洪舟 | 邱江 | 6c / 5.11b |
| 18 | 私人定制 | 苏峰 ／ 赵洪舟 | 板凳熊 | 4+ / 5.8 |
| Route Name 名称 | Bolter 开线者 | FA 首攀 | Grade 难度 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ? | ？ | ? | 6b+ / 5.11a |
| 2 | 假装5.9 | 邱江 | 龙少 | 6a+ / 5.10c |
| 3 | 多思亲王 | 李兰 ／ 赵四 | 赵洪舟 | 6a / 5.10b |
| 4 Left Extension Right Extension | 口是心非 ? ? | 赵四 ／ 李兰 ? ? | 罗茜 ? ? | 5c / 5.10a 5 / 5.9 5c / 5.10a |
| 5 | Black Angel | 阿成 | 阿成 | 6c+ / 5.11c |
| 6 | Pokai in Hell | 阿成 | ? | 6c / 5.11b |
| 7 | Devil's Beard | 阿成 / Marcos | 赵四 | 6b / 5.10d |
| 8 | Heaven and Hell | Marcos | 今今 | 6b / 5.10d |
| 9 | Elephants' Graveyard | Dennis and Maddie | Dennis and Maddie | 6a+ / 5.10c |
| 10 | 泥鳅 | 邱江 ／ 龙少 | 阿成 | 6c / 5.11b |
| 11 | 钟乳石练习区 | 邱江 ／ 龙少 | 阿成 | 6a+ / 5.10c |
Long and varied climbing in an exposed position.
| Route Name 名称 | Bolter 开线者 | FA 首攀 | Length 高度 | Grade 难度 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Red Socks 红色的袜子 | Reuben Greenbank | Peter Mortimer 10/2017 | 28m | 7b / 5.12b |
| 2 | 新袜子 New Socks | Reuben Greenbank | 飞沙 Fei Sha 04/2016 | 25m | 6a+ / 5.10c |
| 3 | A Life Full of You | Reuben Greenbank | Joachim Corstiaans 09/2017 | 34m | 6c / 5.11b |
| 4 | Cheap Socks 便宜的袜子 | Reuben Greenbank | Christoph Bode 10/2017 | 18m | 5 / 5.9 |
| 5 | P1 - Kaku & Fumi 噶库 & 福米 Extension - One More Time 再来一遍 | Reuben Greenbank | Yang Bin 杨斌 12/2016 Gugu 古古 04/2017 | 23m 34m | 5c / 5.10a 6c / 5.11b |
| 6 | 20 Kuai Head Splitter | Tom Wright | Peter Mortimer 06/2015 | 35m | 6b+ / 5.11a |
| 7 | Socks Plant | Tom Wright | Thomas Wright 04/2015 | 34m | 6a+ / 5.10c |
| 8 | Underwater Drum Master | Reuben Greenbank | Edward Kim 04/2016 | 26m | 6c+ / 5.11c |
| 9 | Double Dragon | Reuben Greenbank | Nicolas Duenas 11/2015 | 28m | 6c / 5.11b |
| 10 | Da Mighty One 大麦地 1 | Reuben Greenbank | Ciaran Griffin 04/2016 | 28m | 6b / 5.10d |
Keep going past the Socks Wall for another 10 minutes for this unique looking crag.Routes are long and slightly overhanging. If using the midway anchors you need to be lowered twice, staying attached to the belayer's rope.
| Route Name 名称 | Bolter 开线者 | FA 首攀 | Grade 难度 | Length 长度 | Notes | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Shortie Fights Back | A'Yun | A'Yun | 7b / 5.12b | 15m | Easier for shorter climbers |
| 2 | The Long March | Reuben Greenbank | Joseph DeGaetano | 7a+ / 5.12a | 42m | 21 quickdraws. Midway anchor for 60m ropes. Can be done in one with an 80m. |
| 3 | Open Project | Marcos and Reuben | 8b / 5.13+ ?? | 35m | Hard | |
| 4 | Écureuil agile est tout bleu | Pascal | Pascal | 6b+ / 5.11a | 46m | 20 quickdraws. Midway anchor but still needs a 70m rope |
The crag got its name after a flying squirrel made a spectacular leap from a hole near the top of the first route to be bolted (Attack of the Flying Squirrel). It's in a beautiful little valley with walnut trees providing all day shade.
| Route Name 名称 | Bolter 开线者 | FA 首攀 | Grade 难度 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Goat Cheese | Reuben Greenbank | Devin Perno 12/2016 | 6a+ / 5.10c |
| 2 | 七星 Seven Stars | Reuben Greenbank | 瑄瑄 Xuanxuan 03/2017 | 6a+ / 5.10c |
| 3 | 扣扣秘方 KouKouMiFang | 马铭 Ma Ming | 马铭 Ma Ming 12/2016 | 6b / 5.10d |
| 4 | '粑粑辣子 egg butty' | Peter Mortimer | Tom Wright 02/2015 | 6c / 5.11b |
| 5 | Yemenite Step | Reuben Greenbank | Elad Kuperstock 01/2020 | 6c+ / 5.11c/d |
| 6 | 慢慢做 Slowly Does It | Reuben Greenbank | Reuben Greenbank 02/2015 | 6b+ / 5.11a |
| 7 | Grazing Goat | Reuben Greenbank | Kieran Amin 12/2019 | 6c / 5.11b |
| 8 | The Squirrel Fights Back | Peter Mortimer | Peter Mortimer 10/2015 | 7b / 5.12b |
| 9 | Closed Project | Reuben Greenbank | Closed Project | 7b+ ? |
| 10 | Balles Bak | Peter Mortimer | Peter Mortimer 10/2016 | 7b+ / 5.12c |
| 11 | Attack of the Flying Squirrel | Peter Mortimer | Peter Mortimer 02/2015 | 7a+ / 5.12a |
| 12 | Winds of Change | Tom Wright | Peter Mortimer 02/2015 | 7c / 5.12d |
| 13 | Four Wise Cows | Peter Mortimer | Peter Mortimer 10/2015 | 7a / 5.11d |
| 14 | Bravely extend your leg 勇敢伸出你的腿 | 家尧 Jia Yao | 家尧 Jia Yao 12/2016 | 7a / 5.11d |
| 15 | My Little Wonton | Reuben Greenbank | Wayne 10/2019 | 7a+ / 5.12a |
| 16 | Dirty Squirrel | Reuben Greenbank | Reuben Greenbank 12/2018 | 5c / 5.10a |
Short easy routes between Little Drip Cave and Flying Squirrel.
This small cave is just before the Flying Squirrel Crag. The routes are short but steep and bouldery, and lots of fun.
| Route Name 名称 | Bolter 开线者 | FA 首攀 | Grade 难度 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Forest Fresh | Reuben Greenbank | Kieran Amin 12/2019 | 6b / 5.10d |
| 2 | Two minutes in heaven is better than one minute in heaven | Tim Leong | Tim Leong 11/2017 | 7b+ / 5.12c |
| 3 | Glass Half Full | Tim Leong | Tim Leong 11/2017 | 6c / 5.11b |
| 4 | Open Project | 家尧 Jia Yao | 5.13a?? | |
| 5 | Squirrelicious | Reuben Greenbank | Reuben Greenbank 12/2015 | 6c+ / 5.11c |
| 6 | Angry Squirrel | Trang Bui | Trang Bui 11/2017 | 7a / 5.11d |
| 7 | 上大头 | 家尧 Jia Yao | 大头 Da Tou 07/2017 | 6c / 5.11b |
This great multipitch wall is on the hill overlooking the courtyard. It takes 30 minutes walk to get to the base, and a path running along the top will bring you all the way back in under an hour. It faces west and has shade until 1pm making climbing possible even in the hotter months.
Bolting and FA by Peter Mortimer and Laelia Jaelle (December 2015)
Varied climbing with rooves, tufas, corners, dihedrals and crimpy faces.
The longest pitch (pitch 3) is 33m. It is recommended to take a 70m rope in case you need to lower off.
Pitch 1 - A roof guards the top of pitch 1. Possibly the hardest move on the route, if you can get through this then you should be able to climb the rest.
Pitch 3 - Some tricky moves on small holds make this the crux pitch of the route.
Pitch 1 - Access Traverse - 5 bolts Traverse to end of ledge and then go straight up to the stance. Don't go diagonally accross the rotten bulge.
Pitch 2 - 7a+ - 10 bolts Early crux up the corner to the right of the small roof.
Pitch 3 - 6a - 9 bolts Up the corner, onto the face and into the cracks.
Pitch 4 - 5a - 5 bolts Traverse left, step down past the rotten tufa, then up and left.
Pitch 5 - 6c+ - 15 bolts Up the corner, tricky crux, then step around left onto the face near the top.
Pitch 6 - 5c - 10 bolts Black slab.
Pitch 7 - 6a - 8 bolts Up the choss, then fun climbing through the roof corner.
Pitch 8 - 7a - 15 bolts Tufa heaven - the best pitch. Exposed jug pulling with a small traverse crux after the roof. Need some long extenders. If you fall off you will be hanging in space. Lower to the slab below, climb back to the anchor and try again.
Pitch 9 - 6a+ - 13 bolts Starts with a delicate traverse, then up the corners and cracks. Anchor hidden on the left of the block.
Pitch 10 - Garden slope - 7 bolts Follow the fixed rope through the grass to the wall then head right.
Pitch 11 - 6b - 8 bolts Final outcrop. Stay left at the top over the large blocks - they are solid.
Pitch 12 - Exit slope - 3 bolts Exit the top pulling on grass and trees.
The closest crag to Stone Drum House with a 15 minute approach. Face and slab climbs on interesting rock, and great views down the valley.
| Route Name 名称 | Bolter 开线者 | FA 首攀 | Length 高度 | Grade 难度 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | vv520 | Reuben Greenbank | Dou Jiao 豆角 | 20m | 6b / 5.10d |
| 2 | 感恩 Gratitude | Reuben Greenbank | Ling 张翎 | 12m | 4+ / 5.8 |
| 3 | Bicycle Adventure | Reuben Greenbank | Sylvain Audibert | 25m | 6b+ / 5.11a |
| 4 | Shark Attack | Reuben Greenbank | Reuben Greenbank | 17m | 6b+ / 5.11a |
| 5 | 老夫 Old Husband | Reuben Greenbank | Reuben Greenbank | 16m | 6a+ / 5.10c |
| 6 | 老妻 Old Wife | Eric | Ling 张翎 | 16m | 5 / 5.9 |
| 7 | 红烧屁股 Red Braised Buttocks | Reuben Greenbank | Reuben Greenbank | 24m | 6a / 5.10b |
| 8 | Tune In Tokyo | Reuben Greenbank | Peter Mortimer | 25m | 6b+ / 5.11a |
| 9 | Daddy's Boy | Reuben Greenbank | Peter Mortimer | 25m | 6b+ / 5.11a |
| 10 | Wangcai was a good dog. 旺财是个好狗 | Reuben Greenbank | Reuben Greenbank | 24m | 6c / 5.11b |
| 11 | Squirrel Shit | Rachel Hemingway | Rachel Hemingway | 30m | 6a+ / 5.10c |
| 12 | 越过三邱 Across the three hills. | Reuben Greenbank | 周鹏 Zhou Peng | 18m | 6b / 5.10d |
| 13 | 蜜蜂在哪里？ Where are all the bees? | Reuben Greenbank | Ling 张翎 | 28m | 6a / 5.10b |
| 14 | 豌豆花 Pea Flower | Reuben Greenbank | Ling 张翎 | 18m | 6a / 5.10b |
| 15 | 臭虫 Stink Bug | Reuben Greenbank | Ling 张翎 | 18m | 5 / 5.9 |
| 16 | 名杰信 Ming Jie Xin | Reuben Greenbank | Ling 张翎 | 15m | 5 / 5.9 |
| 17 | 多带水 Bring More Water | Reuben Greenbank | 李兰 Li Lan | 14m | 4+ / 5.8 |
| 18 | Bärli - Little Bear | Häns Müller | Helen Segmüller | 16m | 4 / 5.7 |
| 19 | Pärli - Little Pair | Häns Müller | Helen Segmüller | 16m | 5a / 5.9 |
| 20 | Märli - Little Fairy Tale | Häns Müller | Helen Segmüller | 16m | 5c / 5.10a |
Still unfinished but there are currently 4 pitches which are cleaned and climbable, finishing on a big grassy ledge. We hope to continue the route the top at some point.
Gear - 60m rope and 14 quickdraws.
Pitch 1 28m 5.10b / 6a
Pitch 2 30m 5.10a / 5c
Pitch 3 25m 5.9 / 5a
Pitch 4 25m 5.10c / 6a+
Continue past Sunny Hill and scramble up along the edge of the rock to find this obvious route. Some really nice climbing with lots of stemming up steep corners. Much easier than it first appears and gives some great exposed climbing on the upper pitches.
Be sure you know how to back-clip whilst rapelling to avoid swinging out away from the anchors.
A lone route in a sea of rock.
| Route Name 名称 | Bolter 开线者 | FA 首攀 | Grade 难度 | Length 长度 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Sky Burial | Josh McCoy | Bernard Van De Walle | 7a+ / 5.12a | 30m |
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