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Stirringthe pot: Michelin stars
In France, chefs are so revered that some have been presented with the Légion d’Honneur, the country’s highest honour. But with reverence comes great pressure. Bernard Loiseau, a three-starred chef, once told a friend “If I lose a star, I’ll kill myself.”
In 2003, after a newspaper speculated he was about to be downgraded, he carried out his threat. Little wonder some now eschew the award. This week, Sébastien Bras, whose restaurant held the maximum three stars, became the latest to renounce his place in the Michelin guide.
The trend started in 1999 with Marco Pierre White, then the youngest-ever three-star chef (he “gave back” his etoiles by closing his restaurant). Intolerable pressure—worsened by an arcane, anonymous judging system—is not chefs’ only problem.
Customers at Michelin-starred establishments often expect formality. But restaurants increasingly favour a more relaxed approach to fine dining. For them, a star can be more poisoned chalice than gravy train.
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