China's Ancient Clothing
中国的古代服装
China's traditional clothing is characterized as magnificent, as shown in ceremonies and court, and grand and exerts immense influence on the neighboring countries. An outstanding characteristic of traditional Chinese clothing is not only an external expression of elegance,but also an internal symbolism. Each and every piece of traditional clothing communicates a sense of vitality of its own intrinsically. Such a perfect combination of external form with internal symbolism of clothing is clearly exemplified in the pair of fighting pheasant feathers used in head wear originating in the battle wear of the Warring States period(475一221 BC)。Two feathers of a ho bird(a type pheasant good at fighting)were inserted into the helmet wom by warriors of this period to symbolize a bold and warlike spirit.
中国传统衣着的特点是华丽。中国的传统衣着的一大显着特点就在于它不仅表现出外在的典雅,而且还具有内在的象征意义。每一件传统服装都传递出其自身所具有的内在活力感。从人们所佩带的一副难鸡羽毛中,就可以体现出这种服饰的外在形式与内在象征的完美结合。这起源于战国时代(前475一前221年)战斗时的习俗。因为在当时如果将两片凤鸟(这是一种非常擅长战斗的难鸟)的羽毛插在武士所佩戴的头盔上的话,便可以以此来象征大无畏的尚武精神。
According to archaeological findings,18 000-year-old artifacts such as bone sewing needles and stone beads and shells with holes bored in them attest to the existence of ornamentation and of sewing early in ancient Chinese civilization. Variety in clothing was roughly established by the era of the Yellaw Emperor and the Emperors Yao and Shun(about 4 500 years ago)。Remains of woven silk and hemp articles and ancient ceramic figures further demonstrate the sophistication and refinement of clothing in the Shang Dynasty( 16th to I 1 th century BC )。
根据考古学的发现,18 000年前的文化遗迹中有诸如骨针和穿孔的石珠和贝壳,它们都证明了在中国古代文明很早的时候装饰和缝纫就已经存在了。而到了黄帝和尧舜时代(大约距今4500年前),服装的品种已经初具规模。丝麻织物的残片和古代的陶俑进一步表明商代(公元前16至公元前11世纪)服装的精密程度和优雅程度。
The three main types of traditional Chinese clothing are the pien-fu,the ch'ang-p'ao,and the shen-i. The plan-fu is an ancient two-piece ceremonial costume of a tunic-like top extending to the knees and a skirt or trousers extending to the ankles. The ch'ang-p'ao is a one-piece garment extending from the shoulders all the way to the heels. The shen-i is a cross between the pies and the ch'angp'ao;on the one hand,it consists of a tunic and a skirt or trousers like the pierfu, on the other hand,the tunic and the skirt are sewed together and essentially one piece like the ch'ang-p'ao. Consequently, the shen-i was the most widely worn of the three types. Typical of these three types of clothing were wide and voluminous sleeves and a very loose fit. Tunic and trousers or tunic and skirt,utilized a very small number of stitches for the amount of cloth used. So because of their relatively plain design and structure,embroidered edgings,decorated bands,draped cloth or silks,patterns on the shoulders,and sashes were often added as ornaments. Variety in designs came to be one of the unique features of traditional Chinese dress.
传统的中国服装可以分为弃服、长袍以及深衣三种。弃服是一种分为上衣和下裳的古代装束,它的上衣类似于束腰外衣并且长至膝盖,而其下裳则为裙子或裤子并长至脚躁。长袍则是由肩部到脚踵的单件外衣。深衣则是介于弃服和长袍两者之间的另一种服装,它一方面由束腰上衣和裙子或裤子组成,这一点和弃服很像;而另一方面束腰_r_衣和裙子缝合在一起;实际上就像长袍一样是单件外衣。因此,深衣是这三种服装中使用最广泛的一种。这三种服装的典型特征就是宽大的袖子和宽松的腰身。无论是采用束腰外衣和裤子组合还是束腰外衣和裙子组合,它们相对于所使用的布料量而言都尽可能少地使用针脚数量。由于它们的设计和结构相对比较朴素,因此它们经常绣上花边、饰以镶边、辅以褶皱布料或丝料、肩部加上图案花样、并配上腰带。这些不同的式样便成为中国传统服装的一个特殊之处。
Darker colors were favored over lighter ones in traditional Chinese clothing,so the main color of ceremonial clothing tended to be dark while bright,elaborate tapestry designs actented. Lighter colored clothing was worn more frequently by the common people for everyday life and around the house use. The Chinese associate certain colors with specific seasons:green represents spring,red symbolizes summer, white represents autumn,and black symbolizes winter. The Chinese are said to have a fully developed system of matching,coordinating,and contrasting colors in apparel.
中国的传统服装对暗色调的偏好程度要大于亮色调,因此礼服的主色调往往采用暗色调,然后辅之以精巧的亮色调织锦式样。普通百姓平常生活和在家附近则通常穿亮色调的服装。中国人将某些色彩与特定的季节联系在一起:绿色代表春天,红色代表夏天,白色代表秋天,而黑色则代表冬天。据说,中国人已经拥有一整套对服装颜色进行搭配、协调和对比的方法了。
China's Modern Clothing
中国的近代服装
After the 1911 Revolution,the garments changed greatly,and the dresses and the official cap were eliminated. Particularly,hair plaits were cut off, but chi-pao(one-piece mandarin robe)still exist. The Blue Short Gown of schoolgirls was the main style,and it gradually became popular.
自从1911年辛亥革命以来,外套便产生了巨大的变化,同时服装和官员所戴的帽子均被废除。尤其是剪掉了辫子,但是旗袍(单件式满清官袍)依然保留了下来。女学生所穿的蓝色短袍成为主流款式,并且这逐渐流行起来。
The government specified the system of formal dresses of men and women in the first year of the Republic of China. Men had dress suits and routine suits. Dress suits included day suit and evening suit,which were all made of black cloth,trousers and cravats. Routine suits included Western style and Chinese style(e. g. long gown and mandarin jacket)。The formal dress of women had collars and was long to the knees with buttons down the front. Skirts were decorated with cartouches in the front and back,both sides were sewn with pleats,and both ends had patterns of knots.
在中华民国元年,当时政府规定了男子和女子的正式着装制度。男子可以穿着礼服和常服。礼服又包括午服和晚礼服,两者均包括黑色衣服、裤子以及领结。常服则包括西式和中式两种(即长袍和马褂)。妇女所穿着的正式服装则带领子而且长至膝盖,并在前侧下方缀有纽扣。裙子上配有装饰镜板,同时两侧均缝有褶皱,两端则采用打结式样。
Along with the emergence of cinema,film stars became eminent figures gradually. Shanghai City became the base camp of women's wear in China. The garments of Guangdong Province and Hong Kong became one of the branches of Shanghai City garments
随着电影院的兴起,电影明星也逐渐成为显赫的人物。上海市成为中国妇女服饰的大本营。广东省和香港的外衣则成为海派外衣的一支。
Changes of Men's and Women's Costume
男子和妇女服装的变迁
Men wore western-style clothes and Sun Yat-sen's uniform(Chinese tunic suit ) . These two styles of clothes were foreign styles,and most officials and intel lectuals more usually wore them. White garments were worn in the summer, but black or dark garments were worn in other seasons. The style with a mandarin jacket over a long gown was still one of the common dressing styles. The student's clothing with erect collar .three pockets and seven buttons were mainly the uniform and women included a jacket and trousers or covered with a ramie skirt(long or short small skirt fastened on body )。
男子穿着西式服装和中山装。这两种风格的服装均为西式服装,大多数官员和知识分子通常都穿着这些服装。在夏天穿着白色外衣,但在其他季节则穿着黑色或暗色调外衣。在长袍上穿马褂依然是常见的穿着风格。学生的服装则采用立领、三个口袋以及七粒纽扣,这主要是大学和学院的学生所穿的服装。此外,农村男女的普通穿着方式是一件短褂加一条裤子,或是在裤子外面再罩上竺麻裙子(系在身上的小裙子,可长可短)。
Women's costume changed greatly during the period,some kept the Qing Dynasty(1644一1912)style of trousers and clothes with curving front,some imitated western-style with a jacket and a skirt,most schoolgirls wore black silk skirts and short jackets that had a round lower hem and short sleeves to elbow. The common garments of social women were mainly Chi-pao.
妇女的服装发生了巨大的变化,有些保留了清朝(1644一1912 )的裤子和衣服式样,它们前侧采用了弧形造型,有些则仿照了西式服装并采用短褂加裙子,大多数女学生则穿着黑色的丝裙和短上衣,并且在下方有个圆形的褶边,它的袖子较短只及肘部。社交女性的普通外衣则主要采用旗袍。
The overall tendency of new garments was divided into two types:one type was the long Chi-paos made of solid-color cloth or printed materials;characteristi-tally, laces or patterns were added to the edges,or the small waistcoat and silk scarves were over the jacket. As to the other dressing type,the upper garment and lower skirt were separated.
新式外衣的整体倾向可以分为两种类型:一类是长旗袍,它由纯色布料或印花布料所制成;它的特点是在边上加花边或图案,或是在短褂上罩小马甲和丝巾。至于另一种穿着类型,则分别穿着上衣和裙子。
In the 1920s,people began to wear Chi-pao whose style was mostly the same as that of the Qizhuang garments(garments of banner men)existing at the end of the QingDynasty. Later,the cuff was reduced gradually,and embroidered border was not as broad as the previous one. By the end of the 1920s,dressing style was affected by that of Europe and America,and the pattern of chipao was changed significantly. By the early 19306,Chi-pao had been very popular. The main changes of garments in that time were the modifications of collar, sleeve and length,etc. The garments with high collar were popular at first,and the higher the collar, the more popular. Gradual1y,garments with low collars began to be popular,and the lower the collar,the more modern. Finally,people wore collarless and sleeveless Chi-pao.
到了上世纪20年代,人们开始穿着旗袍,它的风格基本上与清末的旗装(旗人的外衣)是一样的。之后,旗袍的袖口便逐渐收小,而且绣边也不像之前那么宽了。到了上世纪20年代末,服装式样受到了欧美的影响,而旗袍的式样也发生了巨大的变化。到了上世纪30年代初,旗袍已经极为流行了。当时外衣的主要变化是对领口、袖子以及长度等进行了修改。高领外衣起初十分流行,而且领口越高越流行。低领外衣逐渐开始风靡,而且领口越低越时髦。最后,人们开始穿着无领、无袖的旗袍了。
本站仅提供存储服务,所有内容均由用户发布,如发现有害或侵权内容,请
点击举报。