近年来,汉服受到越来越多中国年轻人的青睐。
据统计,2019年仅淘宝平台的汉服交易额就超过了20亿元。今年上半年,已有超过2000万人在天猫上购买汉服。
几天前,“汉服到底能有多仙气”还冲上了微博热搜,收获了5.5亿的阅读量。
这都表明,汉服已经不再小众,“汉服热”仍在升温。
可是,你真的了解汉服吗?
China is a country of multiple ethnicities. The most dominant is a group called the Han, who make up more than 90 percent of the mainland's population. Traditionally, the Han people had their own distinctive way of life, including the way they dressed. The type of clothing they wear is known as Hanfu, but some also call it Han clothing.
The traditional clothing system of Han people is today divided into two phases: ancient and modern. Ancient Hanfu dates back to the time of Yellow Emperor, which is about 4,000 years ago. It had been developing until about 300 or 400 years ago, when the Qing Dynasty's policy on hair and dress code intervened. Later on, it was around the beginning of the 20th century when the country started moving more towards Western-style clothing.
汉服的全称是汉民族传统服饰体系,最早可追溯至5000多年前。之后,汉服制度不断发展至清初,在“剃发易服”政策下消亡。
现代汉服继承了古代汉服的基本理念,并在其中增添了现代的元素,其主流典型特征可以用这八个字概括——
“平中交右、宽褖合缨”。
“平”指的是汉服的剪裁。汉服运用平面对折剪裁的方式制作而成,前后衣身裁片肩线相连呈平面结构,与西方的服饰截然不同。汉服的款式很多,但都坚守“平裁对折”这一理念。
“中”指的是汉服中缝对称,左右均分。这体现了守正执中的文化形态。又因前后中缝与地面垂直,被赋予“刚正、公平、正直”的含义。
“交”指衣裳的交叠。穿汉服时需通过“相交”完成闭合。衣裳叠穿、衣身前后闭合,也被赋予天地交泰、阴阳相合的含义。
“右”指交叠尚右——不论上衣下裤,都是向右侧交叠闭合固定。衣襟向右掩视为阳,表示在世的人;衣襟向左掩视为阴,表示故去的人。
Ping means flat. One of the key elements of Hanfu is that it doesn't have shoulder lines, meaning the outfit uses just one plain cut of fabric.
Zhong means centralized. The cutting and tailoring abide by the rule of symmetrical tailoring and stitching.
Jiao means the elements of Hanfu are designed to cross and overlap, upholding a belief in traditional Chinese culture: the balance of Yin and Yang.
The word 'You' is stressed, meaning everything must move to the right, including how the front is closed.
“宽”指“松袼宽摆”。汉服的用料远大于覆盖人体的需要。宽大的袖子和裙摆时刻提醒人们要注意礼节和仪态。
“褖”(tuàn)指的是衣服的边缘,“礼衣必褖”。古人认为衣领若不加缘边则为粗陋之服,称之为“褴”,如果还加以缝补,则称“褛”,“衣衫褴褛”形容生活困苦。
“合”即“腹手合袖”,约束袖长和仪态。袖长遮住手外能反折至肘部,双手合拢时袖子褶皱堆积,袖口左右相合,蕴含“和合共生”的含义。
“缨”则泛指用于固定的带状部件或穗状饰物。汉服采用衣带或佩绶等部件收束和装饰,若用纽扣则隐藏于不起眼处,形成隐扣系带。
The fifth one is Kuan, meaning width. Hanfu outfits have loose-fitting upper sleeves and bottom. It reminds the wearer to walk with grace and to observe etiquettes.
Tuan and He refer to the edges and sleeves. The edges have to be neat and clean with no dangling threads, while the sleeves should come together and meet.
Last, but not least is the embellishment. Instead of buttons, a band is used to hold up all the pieces.
And that's how a modern Hanfu outfit comes together.
“中国有礼仪之大,故称夏;有服章之美,谓之华。”
汉服彰显着中华文明的智慧和哲学审美,飘逸流畅,又严谨精巧。
在中国综合实力不断提升的当下,汉服也成为了当代青年彰显文化自信最鲜明的表达方式之一。
联系客服