The male-dominated fashion industry needs to listen up. And smarten up. Women need, and want, functional pockets in their clothing. No pockets, or faux pockets, just don’t cut it.
男性主导的时装行业需要停下来倾听并清醒过来,他们需要认识到女性需要并且想要衣服上的功能性口袋。如果口袋没有实际的用处,那请不要裁剪衣服上的那一片区域。
I don’t feel like we’re exaggerating the extreme pleasure that pockets on garments - real pockets, functional pockets - give us, Bridget says. Especially today, when most people tote around a bulky smartphone. Men can stash a smartphone in their coat or pants pocket, while women have to either awkwardly hold it in their hands or carry it in their purses. And women don’t necessarily want to carry their purses everywhere.
布丽姬特说:“我不觉得我们夸大了衣服如果有口袋-真正的口袋、具有功能的口袋-的那种极度快乐。”尤其是现在大多数人都在使用笨重的智能手机时尤为明显。男人可以把智能手机藏在上衣或裤子的口袋里,而女人则不得不尴尬地把手机握在手里,或者把它放在钱包里。而女性并不一定想要随身携带钱包。
Centuries ago, all clothing was created sans pockets. Men and women carried their belongings in small pouches tied around the waist. Then, some 400 years ago, pockets were sewn into men’s clothing, but this same feature was omitted from female garments. In the early 1800s, slimmer silhouettes came into style, so women no longer could wear pockets under clothes but had to wear them over clothes - and their pockets got much smaller. Some say it was a way to keep women powerless. If they had no way to secretly carry items around, it would be harder for them to travel independently or conduct clandestine affairs.
几个世纪以前,所有的衣服都是不含有口袋的。男人和女人会把他们的东西用小袋子绑在腰上。然后,在大约400年前,口袋开始被缝在男性的衣服内,但同样的特征并没有及时出现在女性的衣服上。到了19世纪早期,苗条的轮廓开始流行,女性无法再将口袋缝在衣服内,只能将其缝在衣服外表上,这就使得她们口袋的容量变小了。有人表示这是一种让妇女软弱无力的方法,如果她们无法私密地携带物品,她们就很难去单独旅行或办理自己的私事。
The push for pocket equity began in the late 1800s. The Rational Dress Society, founded in 1891, rallied women to dress for comfort and health by ditching constrictive corsets and donning comfy, useful clothing such as trousers - which, of course, featured pockets. Then, in the 1920s, fashion designer Coco Chanel began sewing them into her women’s jackets. But it wasn’t until the 1970s, when women regularly wore pants, and especially blue jeans, that females moved a step closer to pocket parity.
“男女口袋平权”运动开始于19世纪晚期。成立于1891年的理性服装协会,一直致力于让女性穿上舒适并健康的衣物。当然了,他们也在为女性的口袋抱不平。在20世纪20年代,时装设计师Coco Chanel开始把口袋缝到她的女式夹克上。但直到20世纪70年代,一部分女性才开始经常穿长裤(特别是牛仔裤),此时的“男女口袋平权”运动才算初见成效。
But their progress appears to have stalled. A lot of women’s clothing is still predominantly pocketless, or equipped with tiny pockets that can’t hold more than a key. Some experts say this is due to male dominance in the fashion industry - puzzling in its own right - in addition to designers who believe fashion is more important than function. (Christian Dior is alleged to have said, "Men have pockets to keep things in, women for decoration.")
但是在那之后,理性服装协会的进展似乎停滞不前了。目前,很多妇女的服装仍然没有口袋,或者只有那种连钥匙都放不了的小口袋。一些专家表示,这是由于男性在时装行业中占主导地位,另外,还有些设计师认为时尚比功能更重要。(据说Christian Dior曾说过:“男人的口袋用来装东西,女人的则用来装饰品。”)
Back in 2014, Mashable surveyed five fashion brands regarding pocket size when the large iPhone 6 Plus debuted. Executives said they were considering enlarging the pockets on their women’s pants, but made no promises. Three years later, little has changed.
在2014年,当巨大的iPhone 6 Plus首次亮相时,Mashable对五个时装品牌的口袋大小进行了调查。当时,那些高管们表示,他们正在考虑扩大女性裤子上的口袋,但并没有做出承诺。现在,时间已经过去了三年,但情况几乎没有任何改变。
A few stores are eliminating their men’s and women’s sections and placing clothing by type - e.g., jackets, pants, shirts - and some designers are beginning to create gender-neutral clothing, with presumably big pockets. The Rational Dress Society would likely approve.
一些商店目前正在取消男女装分类,只按服装类型(例如夹克、裤子、衬衫)摆放衣服。一些设计师也开始更多地设计中性服装,这样可能会让女性在口袋上不那么吃亏。理性服装协会应该会赞成这些举措。
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