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Apparel Term Upper-C Chapter--Sweater 8
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【Suturing process]
 
       Sweater stitching process should be determined according to the requirements of its suture and suture equipment.
       The suture requirements of raw materials and products, organizational structure, clothing green density, clothing styles, shapes and colors and other factors, and various parts of the requirements are different, suturing process is relatively long, used equipment more
       V-neck men cardigan general to go through the process as follows: the looper - hot collar - Crop - flat seam - chain stitch - hand-stitched - semi-finished products inspection - milling - Crop - flat seam - hot placket - program, the lock button hole - the nail buttons - to remove impurities - ironing - nail trademark, - finished testing - Packaging.
 
Below to illustrate the requirements of its various processes according to the order of this process.
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, [Looper]
 
Looper sweater stitching machine, stitching machine machine number should match the machine number and sweater knitting machine, stitching machine machine No. selection can refer to the following table.
       Lateral looper sets consumption of 2 to 3 rows, vertical sleeve consumption of 1 to 2 needle stitched wool class sweater commonly used a 28 × 2tex-31 × 2tex the worsted same color yarn as suture; suture chemical fiber The the popular clothing raw material for products as sutures. The looper not allow needle pattern skew and take the needle phenomenon. Here used to aggregate shoulders and fitted sleeves the shoulder seam Nuiko elongation greater than 110%, the hanging shoulder seam Nuiko elongation should be greater than 130%.
 
Together the seamer machine No. selection
 
Knitting machine machine number (pin / 2.54 cm) --- connecting machine unit number (pin / 2.54 cm) --- stitching machine equipped with a needle No.
4 ------------------------ 8 ------------------------ - New 8
6 ------------------------ 10----------- ------------- new 8
7 ------------------------ 10 - 12----------- --------- 8
9 ------------------------ 12 - 14----------- --------- 8
11----------- ------------ 14 - 16----------- --------- new 8
Above 12 ------------------- 18----------- ------------- 8
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Second, the iron collar]
 
Hot collar refers to the the iron ironing predecessor at the neckline, to prepare for the cut at the neckline. Should pay attention to the irons hot piece wet.
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(3) [cropped]
 
CD Shun V-neck cutting refers predecessor tokens eye.
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Fourth, flat seam]
 
Flat seam on lockstitch sewing machine seam consumption of fine-needle products generally 3 to 4-pin, a core needle products 1 to 2-pin.
       The wool products stylolite line with the shirt body with color 17x3 special (tex) cotton or polyester line with 16x3 special (tex), the bottom line of the same color with the shirt body 28x2 special (tex) wool;
       General surface lines and pure wool products in the chemical fiber products suture, the bottom line of clothing billet materials. Flat seam stitch density of 11 to 14 needles per 2.54 cm. Here used to sew the collar and placket, neckline beading collar from the tip of the predecessor of the right collar along the shoulder seam to the tip of the left collar lapel seam, placket on the predecessor of the front of the clothing pieces in the third needle alignment hem from the V neckline, back collar pink line, from right lapel Hem mouth sewn into the hem for the side of the mouth of the left lapel pin placket seam half pattern, the start and end of reinforcement back needle 2 cm.
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V. chain stitch]
 
Chain stitch trimming sewing machine. Seam consumption is 0.5 to 0.7 cm, and quite fine needle products 3 to 4 needles, 2-3 needle Cuzhen product.
       Stitched wool products, commonly used one and the same color shirt body 28x2 special (tex) to 31x2 special (tex) worsted wool yarn as suture;
       Suture of chemical fiber products, the popular clothing raw material for as sutures. Round neck men pullover use it stitched neckline pull the foot should be up to 32 cm; stitched round neck women pullover, collar, saying pull the foot should be up to 30 cm;
       Suture the round neck youngster pullover, neckline pull the foot should be up to 28 cm.
       The chain stitches densities generally every 2.54 cm / 11 to 12 pin, Nuiko elongation greater than 130O. Here used to aggregate large body seam and Xiudi to sew, and should be reinforced Enter the starting and ending two centimeters.
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VI [hand stitched]
 
Shoufeng refers to a hand-sewn, this flexible suture stitch variation, the different requirements of the site can be sutured, but low efficiency. It is used to complete the following work, sew the hem rib, ribbed sleeves day;
       End, sewn bags sewn bags according to process requirements with the first pumping open pocket folder yarn evenly sewn from the pocket at one end to the other end, and both ends of the high and low are equal;
       Press the placket the width specifications seam placket both ends, the side of the mouth, flush with rib; placed seam and reinforced back pin at the intersection Xiudi seam.
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Seven or semi-finished products inspection]
 
Testing suture defects, in order to repair, prevent defects to leak into the next process.
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Eight fulling]
 
Chemical fiber products do not need this road process, polychaetes products fulling, shall milling technology, milling, dehydration and bake one thousand.
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Nine, [cropped]
 
The cutaway predecessor needle pumping at the chalk line cut with ribbon (ribbon length = Length collar +3 cm deep + Ribbon retraction), in accordance with regulations. The pullovers products do not need this procedure.
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X. [flat seam]
 
This process is a ribbon on the flat seamer, a ribbon on each end leaving 1 cm ribbon at both ends of homogeneous powder lines fold into 0.2 cm to rib border port, outside of retirement door lapel with pumping needle stitches sewn in The first needle pattern inside.
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XI [hot placket
 
Ironing the placket, easy to chalk line, lock button hole.
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XII program lock button hole]
 
Button hole in the left placket negative chalk line, draw the first point of the powder line in the neck depth specifications at hem Rib centered at the designated the lowest hole powder line, the the middle uniform decile chalks line. Open the button hole machine lock seam and open the buttonhole stitch density ribbon about 17 needles per centimeter, 12-pin no ribbon. Should be required to adjust the size of the button hole.
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XIII, sew on buttons]
 
By hand, sew on buttons, buttons on the right placket position to be correct, staples solid unified.
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Fourth, to remove impurities
 
Clear impurities eliminate grass clippings and hair products Soke.
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XV [hot clothing]
 
According to specifications set ironing board, Iron or steam ironing machine steaming stereotypes to make clothing planing.
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16, [nail Trademark]
 
Nail trademarks and size increases with in accordance with the regulations.
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XVII finished product inspection]
 
Check standard samples, the the inspection finished product specifications and grading.
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XVIII [Package]
 
Required classification and unpacked.
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The above is the introduction of the V-neck men cardigan suture process and requirements, and other products here will not repeat them, as needed, on demand and with reference to the above described can.
Due to the packet seam is mainly used for cutting and Khao needle products above products are not involved in, their process requirements explained, the whipstitch need Overlock Sewing Khao seam consumption about 0.7 cm, stylolite line with a the 17 × 3tex cotton, or a 15 × 3tex polyester line, the bottom line of hair products with 31 × 2tex wool, chemical fiber products, raw line of clothing blanks.
       General stitch density per inch for 10 to 12-pin, Nuiko elongation greater than 130%, in Nuiko end need to hit Enter. Whipstitch should ensure that the fabric edge coil raveling whipstitch bottom line should not be too high twist, soft, elastic, smooth and has enough strength.
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【Article is excerpted from: Web Search】
【Reserved Integrate / Just Reference】
【Translation is by Goolge】

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