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[Concept]
Pants (trousers〕 mainly refers to a suit jacket matching pants worn.
Trousers in the office and social occasions wearing comfortable and natural premise requirements in shape, pay more attention to the coordination and body. Cutting relax moderate amount, gives a sense of calm and steady. Trousers in the production process and shape the basic international and standardized.
West shorts and trousers of the process is basically the same, ranging in length above the knee can be selected according to their needs.
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【Parts terminology]
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1 [fabrics]
Seven two front trousers, trousers after two waist face a string with loop placket face a, the inside lapel surface, inside each one, side seam Xiecha to pocketed Dianbu two back pocket embedded wire cloth The four bags Dianbu two.
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2 [Linings
Waist one.
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3 [Linings
Waist lining a door, in the lapel lining each one, four side seam bag and after the bag openings lining, lining the back pocket of embedded line four.
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4 [other]
Two the side sewn cloth bags two back pocket cloth zipper a four button one.
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[Process terminology]
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(A) [wire Ding]
1. Role
Most of the pieces of clothing are two symmetrical line. The chalk line flag painted on the two front upper pieces stacked powder mark on the wool come off easily, wool garment sewing before, first pieces stack it up and down two cook symmetrical line Ding mark , said that the various parts of the garment is sewn head size and accessories unit parts, in order to achieve symmetrical, accurate part of the purpose.
2 Methods
The wire D generally use white cotton white cotton is not only applicable to the various colors of wool fabric and the material is soft, velvet long nail on the wool fabric is easy to fall off.
3 parts
(1) before the piece: tuck bit hot traces, side pockets bit seal small crotch, crotch-high, foot and mouth welt.
(2) After the piece; provincial bit hot traces back pocket bit, after the crotch seam, crotch-high, foot and mouth welt.
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(B) [the copy side] (catcher whipstitch)
1 before and after the trousers
Crotch seam for a period of at placket front pants piece fitted can not copy the side, in order to reduce the thickness; not copy side of the waist, rest of Khao side.
2 door lapel
The the inside lapel well, two layers together Khao side; placket outside the mouth Khao side.
3. Waistband
The the waist all package light not Khao side; waist surface does not copy the edge.
4. Bag Dianbu and embedded line
The Khao side; side pockets of the bag pad Bristol port and next port side of Khao side after the bags under the embedded line and bag Dianbu on embedded line Khao side.
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(C) closing Province]
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(D) [normalized pull pants tablets]
1 front trousers
(1) owned by pulling the side seam
Fat side pocket advancing potential normalized straight. Cracks in the side of the crotch, unplug, slightly concave potential side seam hot in a straight line.
(2) The normalized pull the crotch seam before and under the crotch seam
Front crotch seam fat potential propulsion normalized straight crotch crevices crotch the concave potential slightly unplug the crotch seam iron into a straight line.
(3) owned by pulling the knee
While crotch unplug, hot traces corresponding parts (knees), appropriate Guilong, so you can make the hot traces to keep straight.
(4) Normalized Bajiao mouth
The plane modeling if foot mouth concave potential, will have to foot and mouth welt concave potential unplug.
(5) hot gathers
Tuck before and after the press line small tag line, the front cover water cloth sprinkler ironing.
(6) fold iron traces
Small mark as the boundary to hot trace line, under the crotch seam side seam folding flush trousers front cover water distribution, water spray ironing hot traces. Note that according to the normalized pull requirement fold hot.
2 after the trousers
(1) Normalized hot bit of the back pocket.
Opposite darts toward trousers crotch seam down fat and provincial tip potential direction to the waist opening to push even pocket bit the cross wire goes to the arched.
(2) Normalized pull the crotch seam and under the crotch seam.
After crevices the segment slightly Guilong formation buttocks fat potential. The cross after hole door at the wire lock unplug 10 cm after hole door following Guilong. In the crotch bit hot under hard pull. Crotch mouth Guilong, normalized traces to hot. Owned by slightly less than in the crotch, calf - slightly fat Potential. Plane modeling foot mouth if low, will have to be normalized straight.
(3) The normalized pull side seam.
Side pocket fat potential normalized to the hip. Crotch concave potential slightly unplug. Crotch mouth Guilong to the hot traces. Owned by slightly less than in the crotch, calf slightly fat potential.
(4) folding iron traces.
Hot trace line small tag for the sector will be under the crotch seam to side seam folding flush, trousers and negative press owned by pulling requirements folding hot.
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(E) [On the back pocket]
Back pocket style single embedded line dual damascene line, word embedded line, bagging cap with the installed fastener is basically the same, but the process requirements after opening the bag.
The following dual damascene lines do fine bags for example, the learning process open back pocket.
1 Determine the bag bit sticky lining in after the front of the trousers pocket line up, down 0.8 cm each drawing a line the negative corresponding position Fusing. Open a back pocket, just in the right rear trousers OK.
2. Fixed cloth bags and bagging Dianbu
(1) fixed cloth bags
After the trousers sides of the cloth bags out into the waist mouth, both ends of the cloth bags in and out the same distance from the Ji-line fixed with pins or long needle. Note: the bag fabric oblique potential trousers waist mouth the Qi Qiao oblique potential matches.
(2) bagging Dianbu
The next cloth bags at bagging Dianbu. Bags doily position the bag cloth folded up to go to the waist mouth and Qi pocket up to 1 cm draw lines one, put the bag Dianbu fixed Ji-line bags doily under the mouth.
Ji bags embedded line
(1) the upper and lower embedded line Fusing
The embedded wire bonding lining along the side of the put Qi, hot prison.
(2) do embedded line
Under embedded wire bonding lining one side of 1 cm folding ironing on embedded line bunk folded into 0.8 cm trim, front and back and up and down embedded line along the folded edge draw the the embedded line width and pocket.
(3) Ji bag embedded line
On, under the direction of embedded line hem arrived pocket up, down 0.8 cm at the left or right pocket, left pocket online under 0.4 cm Ji-line, landing firmly hand back and forth needle Ji . The next big small darts Ji under embedded line than Ji on the the embedded line to slightly tight, so consistent the bag angle up and down wire lock bag angle to Founder.
4 open pocket
Middle cut along the Ji-line of the pocket, left pocket 0.6 cm scissors triangle, Ji-line can not be cut, and you want to leave the line one or two wire lock. Leave too many bags corner tuck uneven wear, cut too full, the bag angle hair out.
5. Seal Triangle
The embedded line turned into, turned up on both sides of the trousers, cloth bags sealed Triangle come and needle three or four. The embedded line to put a positive seal Triangle.
6. Fixed embedded wire cloth bags
Both ends of the embedded line repair into 0.5 cm mouth with cloth bags under embedded line Ji prison.
7 closed the door the glyph, fixed bag Dianbu
The cloth bags folding arrived the waist. Pocket on both sides of the trousers after the flips, catchy bag trousers after turn, close the pocket door chevron the cloth bag Dianbu fixed under bags, on either side of the gates, Ji come and needle three to four. The closed doors glyph Note catchy down in an arc, so the bag does not gaping.
8. Pocket Ji cloth bags
Methods: cloth bags burr buckle turn 0.5 cm, from bag cloth catchy began pocket Ji a week, Ji line width of 0.2 cm. That outside Ji uniform, bags, cloth flat service.
Method: cloth bags burr seam allowance of about 1.2 cm, with folder Ji trim, the bag the the cloth three weeks burr trim a week, the piping 0.7 cm wide.
9. Fixed cloth bags catchy
Cloth bags and trousers flat, fixed the catchy and lumbar mouth Ji-line, trim on pocket cloth, flush with the mouth waist.
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【Article is excerpted from: Web Search】
【Reserved Integrate / Just Reference】
【Translation is by Goolge】
