被遗忘的服饰：西方中世纪内衣简介
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被遗忘的服饰：西方中世纪内衣简介
（Overlooked and Undervalued: Underwear in the Middle Ages）
JUNE 23, 2018 BY MEDIEVALISTS.NET
By Madeleine Colvin
翻译：鱿条（New man）
来源链接：Overlooked and Undervalued: Underwear in the Middle Ages
Despite being one of the most important garments, underwear is the part of medieval clothing that is often ignored and unexplored in historical fiction and costuming. Modern day costuming and fashion appears to have a fascination with the corsets and crinolines of the Victorian era, but has little interest in what came earlier. What can we say about this element of fashion, which has been overlooked for far too long?
尽管曾是最重要的服饰之一，在历史小说中和戏剧舞台上的中世纪时期的内衣却往往被人们忽视，少有人因好奇而去一探究竟。现代的戏服和时装设计对于表现维多利亚时期的紧身衣和纹样独特的裙带有着别样的热情。然而对于之前中世纪时期的服饰却仿佛置若罔闻。今天我们就来谈一谈这一久已被忽视的潜在的时尚元素。
While corsets can be related to modern undergarments, such as “Spanx①” and other waist-training and body shaping contraptions, what about earlier underwear makes it utterly ignorable? And what about the undergarments of men? This article is a brief overview of what underwear looked like in the middle ages, and how it compares to what we’re likely to wear today. While modern underwear may appear to be on a quest to shrink smaller and less visible each year, it actually had big beginnings!
紧身胸衣与现代的内衣颇有几分相像，尤其像“Spanx①”的产品和其他那些束腰和塑形的小发明。那为何更早先的内衣如此默默无闻呢？中世纪的男士内衣又是怎样的？本文试图勾勒一副关于中世纪各式内衣的简笔画，并将其与今天的衣服相匹配和比较。今天的内衣在试图“俭省布料”和追求与穿着者浑然一体方面越走越远，而最初的内衣其实与之大相径庭！
注：
①Spanx：美国一家制造修身短裤和裹腿的内衣制造商[1]。
The underwear of men is much more prevalent in historical art sources than that of women, possibly because the idea of an unclothed man was considered to be humorous opposed to lewd. There were two common items of underclothing in the middle ages: braies② and undertunics③. If we want to think about what men wear nowadays, these can be compared to modern undershirts and boxers.
历史上对于男士内衣的描绘相较于女式内衣更多见，可能是穿内衣的男人形象更倾向于戏谑而非淫秽。中世纪主要有两种常见的内衣，braies②和undertunics(衬衣)③。形制有些类似今天的衬衫和拳击短裤。
注：
②Braies：中世纪欧洲人穿的一种裤子，源自古凯尔特人和日耳曼部落。在中世纪晚期成为专门的内衣。它常常挂在膝盖或小腿部分，造型类似现今的短裤。最初由皮革和羊毛制成，后来逐渐出现了采用棉花和亚麻布的款式。天主教徒又将其称为“Braccae”[2]。
③Undertunic；类似一种衬衣的内衣。在谈到盎格鲁撒克逊男装时，有相关阐述：“亚麻质地的undertunic式衬衣穿在羊毛做成的tunic式外套里面[3]。”tunics，简单的外衣的总称。长度有从肩部到臀部或脚踝的不同款式[4]。注意不要混同于“tunica（丘尼卡）”；后者是罗马人直接将未染色的羊毛或亚麻布松散地披在肩上形成的穿着[5]。
Modern men’s underwear and shirts are usually made from a cotton or a cotton/ polyester blend, and are stretchy to allow for them to conform to the shape of the body and not be visible underneath your outer-clothes. Medieval underclothes were a little bit different – though they weren’t intended to be visible, it was not seen to be so much of an insult to have them peeking out in places that your outer clothes do not cover. Undertunics were long and billowy, sometimes floor or knee length depending on the length of the outer clothes. Commonly, under tunics were usually tucked into a man’s underwear.
当今的男士内衣常常由棉或棉+涤纶混纺而成，很好地裹藏在外衣下，富有弹性且合身。然而中世纪的情况则不太一样，人们不会刻意露出内衣，但被人看到内衣也不是什么尴尬的事情。undertunics长而蓬松，从及膝长的到拖地长的都有，人们根据不同外衣来搭配。且下摆常会卷进贴身裤子里。
In the Middle Ages, pants as we know them today were not in fashion. Modern costuming interpretations often consider the pants of the Middle Ages to be “tights”, but they were actually made from two separate pieces of fabric, and didn’t become a singular item resembling “pants” until later in the fifteenth century. Instead, men wore long, fitted socks that went from toe to hip and created a general look similar to tight pants. They were tied at the waist to either lacing on their braies (underwear) or to a separate cloth belt worn under their clothing. Because of the nature of these “pants”, braies had a few different designs, ranging from short and resembling boxer-briefs to long and hanging loosely under the knee in billowing mounds of fabric. Some of the most famous examples can be found in the Maciejowski Bible (Morgan Bible)④, which features a number of unclothed men, giving us a greater understanding of what the average man in the middle ages would wear under his outerwear.
在中世纪，穿短裤尚未流行。今天的戏服常常将中世纪的短裤描绘成某种“紧身裤”，但在15世纪前，短裤更像是由两片单独的织物拼凑起来的。相反，一种合身的，从脚趾头拉到腰上的男士袜倒是非常像紧身裤。这种袜子通过一条系带系在braies或是一条单独的布腰带上。因此braies也不得不衍生出包括类似拳击内裤的短款式样和悬挂大量蓬松布料的过膝长款式样等的多种款式。一些最著名的例子可参考MaigjoukScript圣经（摩根圣经）④中关于男士内衣的描述。
注：
④Morgan Bible：摩根圣经（皮尔蓬特摩根图书馆，纽约，M.M. 638）又被称为十字军圣经或MaigjoukScript圣经，是中世纪一本46页对折本的插画圣经。该书以基督徒视角，描绘了希伯来经文中的画面和十三世纪法国的风土人情[6]。
So men’s underwear was a little bit more voluminous but otherwise not so different from modern day. What came earlier for women, before the cinched waist and structured undergarments? It is a pretty simple answer: glorious shapelessness. In our day and age, woman may choose to achieve their preferred figure through fitted undergarments, but early undergarments were more likely to just be a loose linen dress. Reference images of women in underwear in the Middle Ages are few (they are more likely to be depicted as either completely nude or fully clothed), but this loose fitting dress is the most commonly observed. This garment was often referred to as a “smock” or “chemise”, and was the most common undergarment for women for well over 500 years, from the early medieval period through to the Renaissance.
总体来说中世纪男士内衣较为宽松，与如今的穿着倒也不算相去甚远。在束腰的服饰和有框架的内衣出现之前女士内衣又是怎样的呢？简单地说就是有着灿烂而自由的形制。如今妇女可以选择穿合适的内衣来展现理想的身材，但早期的内衣则更可能就是一件宽松的亚麻服装。表现穿内衣女性的中世纪绘画很少（她们多以要么穿戴整齐或者干脆什么也不穿的形象出现），而宽松的内衣是最常见的。从早期中世纪到文艺复兴的500年间，这些款式的内衣又被称为“smock”或是“chemise”（smock所指应该基本和chemise相同）。
A few different designs and materials can be noted with the chemise, with the most common material being linen. Poorer civilians may have worn undergarments made from hemp cloth, while noblewomen had been known to have smocks made of silk. Underdresses have always been depicted in manuscripts as being either white or off white, either made from opaque fabric or from more sheer, see-through material (which was most likely very, very fine linen or silk). Some dresses, such as those worn by the colloquially known “Bohemian Bathhouse Babes” in the Wenceslas Bible⑤, wear spaghetti-strapped dresses with a more fitted torso that appears to provide some support comparable to the modern bra.
Chemise款式的内衣通常由以亚麻布为主的几种材料制成。没钱的老百姓大多穿的是麻布内衣，而贵族则有丝绸质地的服饰。史料的手稿中喜闻乐见的内衣常被描绘成白色或是近乎白色的，由不透明或是半透明（如上好的丝绸和亚麻）材料制成。在温塞拉斯（wenceslas）圣经⑤中，一些被戏称为“波西米亚浴婴”的女人穿的衣服，这是一种用“意大利面式样“的束带装饰的连衣裙，似乎有了一些像是现代胸衣的合身感。
注：
⑤Wenceslas Bible（the Bible of Wenceslaus IV）：以德语写成的，分有多卷的手抄本圣经（德语称Wenzelsbibel）。由波西米亚国王温塞拉斯四世委托，在布拉格于十四世纪九十年代写成。它是圣经最早的德语译本[7]。
With such loose undergarments, it’s easy to assume that the fashion of the day must have been of similar silhouettes, but that was not the case at all! Particularly in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, fashion appeared to favor tight fitting over dresses of wool of silk, showing off a tight bosom and fitted waist, flaring out into a full, straight skirt. An example can be taken from the The Book of the City of Ladies (1405), where we can see women wearing flattering, contoured dresses.
既然内衣如此宽松，你可能会想象当时的时尚或许也和今天差不多，然而情况却并非如此。特别是在十四、十五世纪时，女装流行的款式大多是羊毛和丝绸质地的紧身连衣裙。紧绷的胸部衬托着腰部的曲线，组成一整条倾泻而下的直筒裙。《女市民》中有着关于这种穿着的典型例子，插画上的妇女穿着合身的波浪形裙子。
You may also be wondering what women did for underwear on their lower body. The answer to that is…. nobody knows! There are no reliable historical sources on the matter, and it is a common conclusion that women didn’t wear briefs of any variety. If they did, we can assume that they were similar to those of men, resembling small shorts. Researchers tend to disagree on this subject, and there is currently no definitive answer to this question.
另一方面，人们甚至不知道中世纪的女性下半身是否穿内衣。因为现存的文献对此几乎只字未提，而普遍的观点认为女士贴身短裤在当时尚未出现。假若真的存在这类内衣，我们猜测它和男士短裤会很相像。相关的问题也依然在争论。
In modern times it may seem counterproductive to wear a loose, billowy chemise under a tight overdress, but underwear was worn for more than just support in the Middle Ages. It also provided a vital extra layer of warmth and shielded sensitive skin from itchy woollen outer clothes. It also protected expensive outerwear from sweat and other wear and tear, extending its life and requiring much less washing, which was especially important with delicate materials such as silk.
现代人可能无法理解在紧束的外衣下穿宽松内衣的做法。但在中世纪，内衣不仅提供了额外的保温层，还将敏感的皮肤和使人发痒的毛衣外套隔开。对于昂贵的外套，内衣避免了汗渍和其他不必要磨损的出现。这降低了清洗频率并延长了外套的寿命，对于丝绸质地的服饰来说是很重要的。
Every time we make a historical discovery, we learn more and more about daily life in the Middle Ages. Just a few years ago, we discovered a series of undergarments from the 15th century that resemble bras, completely changing our perspective on historical underwear. Domestic matters such as underclothes may seem mundane, but having an understanding of things like this helps deepen our knowledge of the past and make sense of who we have become today. It is easy to forget that items that are often overlooked and undervalued are the most essential.
每一个历史发现，都让我们更了解中世纪的日常生活。关于十五世纪一系列内衣的发现，改变了人们对中世纪内衣的印象。关于内衣的这些日常琐事看似无聊，但对它们的了解及与现状的比较，加深了我们对过去的认识，让我们知道自己成为了什么样的人。人们常常忘记那些被低估和遗忘的东西有时恰恰是最关键的。
Reflecting on everything, it becomes clear that the true utilitarian use of underwear really hasn’t changed much in the last 700 years. However, one can’t help but note that while medieval underwear was loose and large, modern underwear seems to be getting smaller and smaller. Not to mention that underdresses and slips appear to have gone out of fashion years ago, reserved to be worn with only the sheerest of dresses. There is much to say about the difference in beauty standards from the Middle Ages to today – but maybe I’ll save that for another time. Hopefully this article has brought some clarity to the matter of underwear, and has ignited an interest in what usually remains hidden – after all this is simply a brief overview, there is so much more to be discovered!
我们发现在过去的七个世纪里内衣的实际用途并没有多大的改变。然而引人注意的是中世纪的内衣更大更宽松而今天的内衣似乎变得越来越小。更不用说裙式内衣和衬裙都已经被简单的薄裙子取代。关于中世纪与现代的审美差异大有可谈之处，暂且按下不表。希望这篇文章已经对内衣研究的概况进行了一定的阐述，并且引起了大家对这些不起眼的生活细节的关注，这其中还有很多有趣的内容等待发现。
Our thanks to Madeleine Colvin and Mykhaylo “Miha” Skorobogatov of ArmStreet for this article. ArmStreet is an international company with offices in the US, Australia and Ukraine. Headquartered in Milwaukee, WI, USA, it was founded as a co-op of several LARP game masters and designers, and is now a world leader in top-quality medieval costumes. Click here to visit their website. You can also like them on Facebook or follow them on Twitter @armstreet.
See also More on medieval bras – new details on 15th century find
参考文献
[1] Spanx.[EB/OL].https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spanx
[2] Braies.[EB/OL].https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Braies
[3] Anglo-Saxon_dress .[EB/OL].https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anglo-Saxon_dress
[4] Tunic .[EB/OL].https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tunic
[5] Tierney T. Byzantine Fashions - Coloring Book[J].
[6] Morgan_Bible. [EB/OL].https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morgan_Bible
[7] Wenceslas Bible.[EB/OL].https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wenceslas_Bible
编辑于 2018-07-30 14:12
