豹纹为何经久不衰

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In a black and white photo from the 1950s, singer and actress Eartha Kitt is seen dressed in head-to-toe leopard print. 

在一张20世纪50年代的黑白照片中，歌手兼演员伊尔萨·基特从头到脚都穿着豹纹。

She looks defiant and self-assured, while, next to her, a cheetah sits nonchalantly on a leash.

她看起来非常傲娇，自信满满，而在她旁边，一只猎豹若无其事地坐在一条皮带上。

It is an iconic photo. 

这是一张标志性的照片。

It is also one of the images that, three decades ago, inspired burlesque dancer Jo Weldon to start researching the story and legacy of leopard print. 

这也是启发滑稽剧演员乔·韦尔登开始研究豹纹的故事和遗产的30年前图片之一。

Her findings have been brought together in a new book, "Fierce: The History of Leopard Print," in which Weldon charts the origins, evolution and changing status of one of fashion's most ubiquitous patterns.

她的发现被收录在一本新书《野性十足:豹纹的历史》中，在这本书中，韦尔登描绘了这种最普遍的时尚图案的起源、演变和变化。

"Kitt was a starting point, as I was deeply fascinated by her as a child," Weldon said in a phone interview. 

韦尔登在接受电话采访时说:“凯特是我研究的起点，因为我小时候非常迷她。”

"She looked fabulous in her prints -- a strong figure. But she was also a woman of substance. To me, the spots tied both aspects together."

“她穿着豹纹衣服看起来棒极了——是一种很强有力的形象。但她也是一个有品味的女人。对我来说，这些斑点把两个方面都联系在了一起。”

Leopard motifs -- and feline imagery in general -- have been used to signify power, independence and confidence for centuries, according to Weldon.

韦尔登说，几个世纪以来，豹纹和猫科动物的形象一直被用来象征权力、独立和自信。

"Leopards have long been seen as fierce, very resilient animals." she said. 

她说:“长久以来，豹子一直被视为凶猛而有韧性的动物。”

"I think people feel a primordial connection with them."

“我认为，人们与它们有一种原始的联系。”

Historically, leopards have played a prominent role in iconographies around the world. 

从历史上看，豹子在世界各地的肖像中扮演着重要的角色。

The "Seated Woman of Çatalhöyük," a clay figurine dating back to around 6000 B.C., shows a female figure resting her arm on a leopard.

“卡塔霍裕克的坐着的女人”，一个可以追溯到公元前6000年左右的石碑画，展示了一个女性的身影，她的手臂搭在一只豹子上。

Seshat, the Egyptian goddess of wisdom, is often pictured wearing a leopard or cheetah hide. 

埃及智慧女神塞萨特也经常被描绘成穿着豹纹或猎豹皮。

And goddess Xi Wangmu, known as the Queen Mother of the West in Chinese mythology, is depicted with the teeth of a tiger and the tail of a leopard.

而在中国神话中，被称为“西王母”的女神，有老虎的牙齿和豹子的尾巴。

"During the 18th and 19th centuries, leopard fur and clothes came to signify wealth and status," Weldon said. 

韦尔登说:“在18世纪和19世纪，豹纹皮毛和豹纹服装象征着财富和地位。

"Then you enter the 20th century and the start of mass-produced fabrics and garments.The print entered the mainstream, and began having modern significance."

“然后进入了20世纪，人们开始大规模生产面料和服装。印刷术成为了主流，并开始具有现代意义。”

Leopard print's reputation has gone through a number of iterations since. 

从那以后，豹纹的声誉经历了多次反复。

It has been deemed low-brow, provocative, tacky and dangerous. 

它曾被认为是低俗、挑衅、俗气和危险的。

It has been worn by starlets and associated with cheap clothing. 

它一直被小明星们穿着，并与廉价服装联系在一起。

In pop culture, from movies to music, leopard-clad women have been identified as mean, shallow and loose, which Weldon points out through a series of chapters titled "The Trophy Wife," "The Bad Mother" and "The Femme Fatale."

从电影到音乐，在流行文化中，穿着豹纹衣服的女性被认为是刻薄、肤浅和放荡的，韦尔登在《花瓶妻》、《坏母亲》和《蛇蝎美人》等一系列章节中指出了这一点。

Yet, the motif has also been embraced by the upper echelons of fashion. 

然而，这一主题也受到了时尚界上层人士的欢迎。

Christian Dior is credited as the first designer to put leopard print -- rather than fur -- on the runway in 1947. 

克里斯汀·迪奥被誉为1947年第一个将豹纹——而非皮草——运用于t台的设计师。

Style icons like Josephine Baker, Elizabeth Taylor, Jackie Kennedy and Edie Sedgwick all wore the pattern.

时尚偶像约瑟芬·贝克、伊丽莎白·泰勒、杰奎琳·肯尼迪和伊迪·塞奇威克都穿这种款式。

In recent decades, Beyoncé has publicly sported leopard print, as have Anna Wintour and Michelle Obama. 

最近几十年，碧昂斯和安娜·温图尔、米歇尔·奥巴马都公开穿过豹纹。

And, season after season, fashion magazines hail "the return of leopard" on designer catwalks, from Balmain to Armani, Cavalli to Givenchy.

从巴尔曼到阿玛尼，从卡沃利到纪梵希，时装杂志一季又一季地在设计师的t台上为“豹纹的回归”欢呼。

"Leopard print has swayed in so many different directions because it's open to interpretations," Weldon said. 

韦尔登说:“豹纹在很多方面都发生了变化，因为它可以进行多种解读。”

"It can be seen as a 'neutral,' that looks great next to bolder colors, but it can also perfectly stand out on its own."

“它可以被看作是一种'中性’，与更大胆的颜色一起使用，它看起来很棒，但它也可以完美地独树一帜。”

"Our appreciation of it also goes back to our relationship with the animal: We admire it and fear it, we find it irresistible yet we know it's dangerous. ”

“我们对它的欣赏还可以追溯到我们与动物的关系:我们欣赏它，也害怕它，我们觉得它不可抗拒，但我们知道它很危险。”

“Felines evoke nocturnal activities and playfulness. All of that goes into the print and, by association, to the woman who wears it."

“猫科动物能唤起夜间活动和嬉戏。所有这些都被印在了印刷品上，通过联想，也被印在了穿它的女人身上。”

These dichotomies may explain leopard print's endurance in the public imagination, as well as its ongoing popularity among diverse segments of consumers. 

这些二分法或许可以解释豹纹在公众想象中的耐久力，以及它在不同消费者群体中持续流行的原因。

Weldon believes the ever-evolving trend is, today, as relevant as ever.

韦尔登认为，在今天，这种不断演变的趋势与以往一样重要。

"In all its forms -- sophisticated, luxe, rebellious, sexy -- (the) leopard print makes a statement. It can't be ignored, whether you like it or loathe it. 

“豹纹以其所有的形式——精致、奢华、叛逆、性感——发表了一种声明。不管你喜不喜欢，它都不能被忽视。”

That's why it's still so prominent in mainstream culture.

这就是为什么它在主流文化中仍然如此重要。

"At a time when women are being pulled in different directions, and are trying to define and affirm what it means to be a strong woman, the pattern feels relevant. It says 'I want to be seen.'"

“当女性可以选择各种不同的方向，并试图定义和肯定成为一个坚强的女性意味着什么时，豹纹让人觉得是相关的。上面写着'我想被人看见’。”

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问题

文中提到豹纹最早的使用可以追溯到公元前多少年？

留言回复正确答案，前十名朋友可以获得红包奖励哦，赶快来试试吧！

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