'size“should tell you the dimensions of the person or thing you intend the item to fit.
尺码会告诉你这件物品适合的人或物的范围。
A lot of designs only need to come in one size—items such as scarves,blankets,shawls.
很多设计仅需要一个尺码—例如围巾,毯子,披肩。
Other items can come in multiple sizes,but those sizes are essentially arbritrary ,or pre-determined by external criteria—such as a baby blanket sized to fit a car seat versus one to fit a crib.
其他物件可以有多个尺码,但这些尺码其实很随意,或者被特定的标准限定了—例如合适车座或婴儿床的毯子。
建议编织初学者从小尺寸或对尺码不敏感的围巾、披肩开始练习。
size and finished measurement
尺码和完成尺寸
There is a difference between the “size”and the“finished measurement”of a pattern,and this difference will provide insight into the way the garment should fit.
尺码和成品尺寸是有区别的,这个区别对于衣服怎样合身提供启发。
Some sweaters are meant to fit loosely,some are meant to hug the body and others fall somewhere in between.
一些毛衣注定宽松,一些紧紧包裹身体,一些不松不紧。
The size,as listed on a sweater label is meant to convey which bust size the sweater is intended to fit.尺码,就像毛衣商标上标的,是为了告诉你衣服设计合适哪个胸围尺寸。
It may lebeled XS,S,M,L,XL…
可能标记为加小码,小码,中码,大码,加大码…
The finished measurements are the actual results you will get when the sweater is complete.
完成尺寸指实际完成毛衣编织最终你得到的结果。
It may refer to in a range of numbers as 17(17.5,18,18.5)'.
可能为一系列数字好像17(17.5,18,18.5)英寸这样。
The difference between these two sets of numbers equals how much ease the sweater will have when you are finished.
两套数字的差别等于你完成后想要毛衣有多少松量。
大家都有这样的经验,不同牌子的衣服,一样的码数可能你穿上效果都不会相同。
不同的线材,不同的设计,成衣尺寸和尺码都有区别。
ease 松量
1.No ease.没有松量。
A sweater knitted with no ease will be close-fitting without being tight.It will follow the lines of the body but will not be restrictive.
没有松量。没有松量的毛衣包裹身体不紧绷。可以显现身体曲线没有约束感。
2、positive ease.正向松量。
The amount of positive ease noted in a pattern donates how much extra 'room' there will be in the finished article.
图解标注的正向松量的数量表明完成作品中会有多少的空余。
If a sweater pattern specifies that it should have 10cm of positive ease ,then the circumstance of the jumper will be 10cm larger than that of the person wearing it.
如果一件毛衣图解标明10cm松量,衣服围度将比穿在身上那个人的尺寸大10cm。
A jumper with a lot of positive ease will be relaxed and 'baggy'.
一件有很大正向松份的衣服将是休闲和“松垮”的(象穿麻袋一样)。
3、Negative ease.逆向松量。
Many knitted fabrics,especially those knitted from wool and other fibres with a bit of 'give' have the ability to stretch.
很多编织品,特别是用羊毛和其它会“给”那么一点的纤维会有弹性。
It is this property of knitted fabric that allows garment to be knitted with negative ease.
编织物的这个特性使得衣服可以按照逆向松量编织。
A garment knitted with negative ease is intended to fit tightly against the body and closely follow the line of the figure.
逆向松量编织的衣服会紧紧包裹身体显示身体曲线。
The Craft Yarn Council suggests
these guidelines for ease in hand-knit garments.
手工线材协会(美国)给出的关于手编衣服松量的指导。
风格:
very close-fitting :非常合身为实际的胸围或更少。
close-fitting:贴身为1—2英寸(2.5—5cm)
standard-fitting:标准合体为2—4英寸(5—10cm)
loose-fitting:宽松为4—6英寸(10—15cm)
oversized:超宽松为6英寸(15cm)以上
记得我在学专业制图时,比较常用的松量是在在原型基础上,在四分之一原型图上加2—2.5cm,总量就是8-10cm。这就是合体的一件衣服。
不同的款式对于松量要求不同,本号发表于2021年8月19号的落针蕾丝紧身背心就是一件逆向松量的衣服。而我之前设计的长方衣白兰就是一件宽松款型的衣服。
学习日本宝库手工编织课程已经五年了,完成了讲师课程和部分的指导员的作业。
学而不思则罔,思而不学则殆。有一些基础知识、心得技巧想常常温习一下,写的不完善的地方,欢迎指正。
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