本期编辑/开鸿顺
KaiHongShun Studio
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人们在对待爱情上，是出奇一致地讨厌绿色。绿色就像是诅咒，如果感情之中出现一丁点绿色，那么这段感情基本上都可以划上句号了，因此，绿色在现如今的社会中被称为原谅色。但是在古代，绿色却是尊贵的颜色，宋代官服有是绿色的，女子结婚所穿的嫁衣都是绿色的。
People are surprisingly consistent in their dislike of green when it comes to love. "Green is like a curse. If there is a hint of green in a relationship, it can almost end the relationship. Therefore, green is known as the forgiving color in modern society."...
在古代，绿色不仅仅是尊贵的象征，还是幸福的象征。在不少电视剧中，很多女子成婚时，着绿色婚服，牵郎君之手，执子之手，与子偕老，绿色成就一段又一段的爱情故事。当然最重要还是绿色代表的地位。
In ancient times, green was not only a symbol of honor, but also a symbol of happiness. In many TV dramas, when many women get married, they wear green wedding clothes, hold the hand of their husband, hold the hand of their son, and grow old together with their son...
在宋朝，绿色可是身份尊贵的象征，一般人穿绿色可就是犯了大忌，那么在宋朝，绿色到底代表的是什么身份呢？
In the Song Dynasty, green was a symbol of status and dignity, and it was a taboo for ordinary people to wear green. So what exactly did green represent in the Song Dynasty?
01宋朝的绿色官服
在电视剧《知否知否应是绿肥红瘦》中，小公爷的官服从绿色变成了红色，看剧的人可能不知道其中的含义。其实这就是宋朝官员等级升迁的表现，不同级别的官职，所穿戴的官服颜色都是不同的。按照宋法条律规定，官服三品以上用紫色，五品以上用朱色，七品以上绿色，九品以上青色。
In the TV series "Do you know whether it should be green, fat, red, and thin?", the official dress of the little prince changed from green to red, and viewers may not know the meaning of it. In fact, this is a manifestation of the promotion of officials in the Song Dynasty...
在这里可以看出，绿色所代表的官职是五品衣裳，算得上有身份有地位了。可以看出，小公爷当时穿着的绿色官服，也算得上权贵。在之后，得到更多权势的情况，官服由绿色转变红色，是因为官职的提高，因此着朱色。
From here, it can be seen that the official position represented by green is five-grade clothing, which can be considered as having status and status. It can be seen that the green official uniform that the little prince was wearing at that time was also considered a dignitary.
随着宋朝的改革，古人将青色弃之不用。据《宋史·职官九》记载：“已上文武三品已上服紫，五品已上服绯，九品已上服绿。”也就是在北宋神宗元丰年间，绿色被改为九品以上穿着。因此，绿色在官服中的地位有了直线下降。
With the reform of the Song Dynasty, the ancients abandoned cyan. According to the record in "The History of the Song Dynasty: The Ninth Rank of Official", "The third rank of civil and military personnel has been dressed in purple, the fifth rank has been dressed in Fei, and the ninth rank has been dressed in green." ...
无论是上朝还是重要场合，古人必须着装官服，并且对官服的穿着还有一系列的要求。什么等级的官员就要穿什么颜色的官服，不能僭越，穿着也不能杂乱，这其中还有着很多的讲究。“青袍朝士最困者，白头抬遗徒步归，”这是杜甫在《徒步归行》中的句子。
No matter in the last dynasty or on important occasions, ancient people had to wear official clothes, and there were a series of requirements for the wearing of official clothes. Officials of any rank should wear official uniforms of any color, and they should not be overbearing or disorderly dressed...
可以从侧面看出来，官服等级制度的严谨和被淘汰青色的窘迫境况。绿色官服地位直线下降的原因还不得不说说青色官服的这一批人，青色和绿色细致的人是能看出区别的，但是有的官员为了“偷偷摸摸”的提高自己的身份，常常用和绿色较近的青色代替官服。
From the side, it can be seen that the rigorous hierarchy of official clothing and the plight of being eliminated from the cyan color. The reason why the status of green official uniforms has plummeted is that the group of people in cyan official uniforms can see the difference between cyan and green meticulous people...to "sneak" improve their identity.
更甚者直接穿着绿色官服，还理直气壮的表明“下官一时疏忽，没有分清绿色和青色，请陛下责罚”。就是这些“偶然”的小错误，无奈，最后只能直接弃用青色，直接改绿色官服为最下等。虽然是最下等，但是在等级森严的宋朝，平头百姓也是视绿色为贵色，断然不能随意穿着。
What's more, he directly wore a green official uniform and rightfully stated, "Your Majesty, for a moment's negligence, I did not distinguish between green and cyan. Please punish me.". "It was these" accidental "small mistakes, and I had no choice but to abandon cyan and directly change the green official uniform to the lowest grade."...
02宋朝女子婚服
“笙酒赛秋社，箫鼓迎新婚”，这是陆游写女子出嫁时的一句诗，讲述的就是女子出嫁时的场景，但是有趣的是，宋朝时期，女子的嫁衣与现在的婚服完全不同。女子出嫁的时候，穿着绿色的婚服，男子穿着红色婚服。这样红配绿的搭配，还得是宋朝的喜好。
"Sheng Jiu Sai Qiu She, Xiao Gu Welcomes the Newlywed" is a poem written by Lu You when a woman gets married. It tells about the scene when a woman gets married. However, it is interesting to note that during the Song Dynasty, a woman's wedding dress was completely different from today's wedding dress.
追根溯源，宋朝这样出嫁婚服制度还是流传于唐朝，在唐朝有着“红花配绿叶”的说法，根据古代男女地位的表现可以看出，女子就是那个绿叶。但是还有人认为，绿色是尊贵的象征，表达的是幸福，因此，女子穿着绿色嫁衣，寓意着未来的婚后生活是幸福美满的。
Tracing back to the source, the marriage dress system of the Song Dynasty was still spread in the Tang Dynasty, where there was a saying that "red flowers match green leaves". According to the performance of the status of men and women in ancient times, women were the green leaves...
同样的，即便是绿色婚服，在宋朝也有着不同的规定。古人最重视的就是阶级地位的制度，出嫁之人为家中嫡女的时候，便是穿着绿色尊贵的嫁衣，而非嫡系的女子嫁人，多半是着青色嫁衣。可以说，绿色的婚服在当时宋朝的制度规则之下，算是存在最完整婚嫁仪式。
Similarly, even green wedding clothes had different regulations in the Song Dynasty. The most important thing the ancients attached to was the system of class status...It can be said that the green wedding dress was the most complete wedding ceremony under the institutional rules of the Song Dynasty at that time.
只有嫡女才能着绿色基本上是宋朝底层百姓心中默认的规则。而非嫡系的穿着青色或者红色，也是时代的无奈。顺应宋朝的社会现状，绿色的发展其实就是身份阶级的象征。“红花配绿叶”这样的说法，也体现了宋朝女子的无奈。但是无法改变的情况下，百姓也只能把绿色当作一种祥瑞的象征，这样便能增添一些婚嫁的喜庆。
"Only the legitimate daughter can wear green, which is basically the default rule in the hearts of the people at the bottom of the Song Dynasty.". And wearing cyan or red is also the helplessness of the times ...
03绿色婚服为何演变为原谅色
宋朝时期，可以说，绿色婚服发展最为流行的时候，但是随着时代的更替，红色逐渐替代了绿色，这其中还有一些人们少知的故事。根据明朝的《元典章》的条文来看：“娼妓穿皂衫……亲者裹青头巾。”这句话理解过来，就是娼妓穿着皂色衣服，与她们相关的人，必须带着青色的帽子。
During the Song Dynasty, it can be said that green wedding clothes were most popular, but with the change of times, red gradually replaced green, and there are some stories that people rarely know. According to the provisions of the "Yuan Dianzhang" of the Ming Dynasty, "prostitutes wear soapy clothes... relatives are wrapped in blue turbans."
这里可以看出，不仅仅是娼妓的地位低下，与之有关的亲人也必须要带着青色的帽子，显示他们地位的低下。甚至到了洪武三年，朱元璋直接下达诏令“青字顶中”，也就是青楼的女子必须头上戴着绿色的头巾，不能和百姓普通人家的妻子戴一样的头巾颜色。
It can be seen here that not only prostitutes have a low status, but their relatives must also wear cyan hats to show their low status. Even in the third year of Hongwu's reign, Zhu Yuanzhang directly issued an edict "Qing Zi Ding Zhong"...
不仅如此，就连娼妓家中男子，都必须穿戴绿色衣服和绿色帽子，以便区分他们和别的男子的区别，说白了，就是地位低下，不能和普通人穿着一样的衣服。可以看出，这时候的绿色，已经不再是尊贵，幸福地表达了，而是地位低下的象征。至此，普通百姓若是遇到戴青巾的人，都是远而避之，因他们身份低贱，少接触为上。
Not only that, but even the men in the homes of prostitutes must wear green clothes and green hats to distinguish them from other men. To put it bluntly, they are of low status and cannot wear the same clothes as ordinary people.
其中，在明朝的《七修类稿》就写道：“今吴人骂人妻有淫行者曰，绿头巾”。和别人偷情的人，就是佩戴绿色头巾的人，在这里绿色头巾已经转变成为“绿帽子”的说法，也就是，妻子背着自己的丈夫和其他人偷情的行为。
Among them, in the "Seven Xiu Class Manuscripts" of the Ming Dynasty, it was written: "Nowadays, the people of Wu call their wives lewd and call them green turbans.". A person who has an affair with someone else is someone who wears a green scarf.
绿色的转变，看起根源，是时代变更的结果，是地位的显示。不同的颜色代表不同的等级，因此人们在看到低贱事物的时候，就习惯性地用排最低的颜色来表示，可以看出，绿色也是“背锅侠”啊！
The transformation of green, as seen as its root cause, is the result of changes in times and a manifestation of status. "Different colors represent different levels, so when people see lowly things, they habitually use the lowest ranked color to represent them. It can be seen that green is also a" pot bearer "!"!
04结语：
绿色，在宋朝时期，是尊贵的颜色。这样的颜色等级排行也是流传下来的规则，因此绿色官服是宋朝百姓眼中的尊贵颜色。女子出嫁，穿着着绿色的婚服，心中向往着美好的婚后生活，因此，对于宋朝女子来说，嫡女穿着的绿色婚服，是更加能够体现女子地位的。所以，绿色是幸福祥的象征。
Green, in the Song Dynasty, was a noble color. This ranking of color levels is also a handed down rule, so green official clothing was a noble color in the eyes of the people of the Song Dynasty. When a woman gets married, she wears a green wedding dress and yearns for a beautiful married life in her heart.
其实，绿色的演变，不能代表绿色本身的寓意，事实上，绿色只是时代的产物，身份地位的显示。如果抛去等级不提，无论是绿色还是尊贵的红色，它们存在的本身是没有错误的，错在等级时代。最后，绿色不是原谅色，做错事情的人才是。
In fact, the evolution of green cannot represent the meaning of green itself. In fact, green is only a product of the times and a manifestation of identity and status. If you leave out the hierarchy and don't mention it, whether it's green or noble red, there's no mistake in their existence, it's in the era of hierarchy...
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