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[转] 十二卷的叶插繁殖
本帖最后由 303435167 于 2014-5-15 23:56 编辑

只翻译了有用过程部分  用google翻译 不通顺的地方用了点自己的语言 每个人认识不同  翻译出来的意思也会有偏差  因为之前看的帖子没见过这样的分叶  所以发出来给大家看看

很多花友说没必要把根全下了 不如砍头来的快 其实这篇文章的可取之处主要就是下叶时带茎组织的方法  砍头的时候不也是会下几片叶子  下叶子的时候就可以参考这种方法了  不是说一定就要如此把根全下了下叶子    仅做参考 切勿照搬照套

How to propagate Haworthia from leaves
        Posted by: Marlon Machado (IP Logged)
        Date: Tuesday, 01-Jan-2008, 15:28:28
        The picture below is of a specimen of Haworthia emelyae var. comptoniana that I bought as a small plant from Specks at the stand of Exotica nursery at ELK, in September of 2005. When I got it the plant was small, with only six or seven leaves. It had caught my attention because of the very nice pattern in the leaves - of all the clones of Haworthia emelyae var. comptoniana that I have, this one has the most vivid pattern in the leaves, with the light green reticulation pattern contrasting very well with the dark background of the leaves. It has the field number JDV 90/8. This plant has grown very well in the past two years, and has increased in size to almost fill the 6 inches (15 cm) pot in which it is planted. In December of 2007 it had about 23 leaves.

Haworthia emelyae var. comptoniana. Photo: Marlon Machado.

         I am very happy with this plant, but there is one thing that bothers me: I only have this one specimen of this form. This plant has not produced any offsets (and Haworthia emelyae var. comptoniana is a plant that usually stays solitary), and thus I do not have any replacements - if something happens to this plant and I lose it, then that is it, the plant is gone. For this reason I decided to propagate this specimen from its leaves.
        Species of Haworthia can be propagated from leaf cuttings, but the leaves must be whole - the meristematic cells that can produce new plantlets are located at the base of the leaf where it is attached to the stem of the plant. Thus, the leaves must be taken with some stem tissue in order to ensure that the base of the leaves contains the meristematic cells necessary for regeneration of a new plant. In order to do that, you basically has to chop up your plant. It takes some courage to chop up a nice specimen like the one in the picture above, but with time and experience you will find that the procedure I explain below gives very good results.
        Haworthia的物种可以从叶扦插繁殖,但是叶片的分生组织细胞,可以产生新的小植株分别位于附着到植物的茎的叶的基部。因而,叶片必须采取以一些茎组织,以确保叶片的基部包含必要的一个新的植物的再生的分生组织细胞。为了做到这一点,你基本上要砍了你的母本。这需要一些勇气砍了一个很好的标本像在上面的图片中,但随着时间的推移和经验,你会发现,我解释一下下面的程序给出了很好的效果。
        However, if you are willing to try it, avoid making your first trials with your prized specimen plants, but rather try the technique first with a plant of less value, perhaps with a rosette of that clump of Haworthia cymbiformis that you have somewhere under the stage of the greenhouse. Once you have gained experience and confidence in the technique, then you can move on to apply it to your more prized specimen plants.
        不过,如果你愿意尝试它,避免使你的第一个试验用您的珍贵植物标本,而是首先尝试这种技术与植物的价值不大,或许与Haworthia那丛的花环cymbiformis你下有地方舞台温室。一旦你获得了经验和信心的技术,那么你可以继续将它应用到你更多的珍贵植物标本。
        The first you need to do is to unpot the plant. Below is a picture of the specimen of Haworthia emelyae var. comptoniana unpoted, showing a strong root system, even growing new young roots:

Haworthia emelyae var. comptoniana. Photo: Marlon Machado.


The next step is to cut off all the roots, and wash the plant to remove all the dirt that it may have at the base:
下一个步骤就是要切断所有的根,与洗净的植物去除所有,它可能有在基地的污垢:


Haworthia emelyae var. comptoniana. Photo: Marlon Machado.


Here is a picture of the plant with the roots removed. It is a big specimen with many leaves, and almost fills my hand:
这里是使植物与除去根部的图片。这是一个很大的标本有许多树叶,几乎占满了我的手:


Haworthia emelyae var. comptoniana. Photo: Marlon Machado.


The next step is to cut out the stump of stem at the base, until you get to the basalmost leaves. Then you need to identify the lowermost leaf of the rosette, which is the first leaf (viewing the plant from the bottom, it will be uppermost leaf) and cut the stem just below it, as shown in the picture below:
下一步就是要切出干的桩在基底,直到你到了basalmost叶子。然后,你需要找出花环,这是第一片叶子的最下面的叶(从底部观察的植株,这将是最上面的叶子),切只是它下面的茎,如下面的图片:


Haworthia emelyae var. comptoniana. Photo: Marlon Machado.


The incision must be made at an oblique (slanting) angle, in order to almost cut the leaf out. This has to be done carefully, and the incision should not be very deep otherwise you can end up damaging the leaves below the one you are currently removing.
该切口必须以倾斜(倾斜)角度进行,以几乎切叶出来。这必须认真完成,切口不应该是很深刻的,否则你可以最终损害的叶子下面您当前正在移除。


Haworthia emelyae var. comptoniana. Photo: Marlon Machado.


After you had cut the stem just below the point of attachment of the leaf as explained above, the leaf will be almost loose, attached to the stem by a little layer of tissue. Now you must carefully pull the leaf sideways - it will come out easily. If the leaf does not come out easily, it is because the stem was not cut deep enough - try to cut a little more, also from the side.
已切茎的正下方附接的叶片的如上面所解释的点,叶片将几乎松动,通过组织的小层附着在干。现在,你必须小心地将叶侧身 - 否则很容易分出来。如果叶子不容易分出来,这是因为干是不切深足 - 试图削减多一点,也从侧面。


       
Haworthia emelyae var. comptoniana. Photo: Marlon Machado.


After you had removed the leaf, there will be a little bit of stem tissue at the base of the leaf, as shown in the picture below. The leaf removed this way has a greater chance of rooting down and producing plantlets, because the meristematic cells at the base of the leaf are intact.
当你已经下好的叶子,将有茎组织的一点点在叶的基部,如下面的图片。叶去掉这种方式具有生根下来,生长苗的机会较大,因为分生细胞在叶的基部都完好无损。


Haworthia emelyae var. comptoniana. Photo: Marlon Machado.


Now you need to repeat the process for the remaining leaves, until about six to ten leaves are left in the rosette. You have to judge when to stop removing the leaves, as it will depend on each individual species. With some species you can continue removing leaves until the rosette has only a handful of leaves left, while with other species more leaves must be left in the rosette otherwise it may fall apart.
现在,你需要重复这个过程,其余的叶子,直到大约六到十叶留在莲座。你必须判断何时停止拆除的叶子,因为这将取决于每个物种。对于某些物种可以继续下叶,直到叶莲座只有少数叶子离开,而与其他物种更叶子必须留在莲座否则可能会散架。
        Follows a picture of the leaves I removed from the specimen of Haworthia emelyae var. comptoniana. Fifteen leaves were removed in total, the majority of which will root and get established, and in time each leaf will produce one or more plantlets.
以下我从Haworthia emelyae变种的样本去掉叶的图片。 被拆除的总十五叶,其中大部分将根和得到确立,并在每个时间片会产生一个或多个植株。


Haworthia emelyae var. comptoniana. Photo: Marlon Machado.


And here is the rosette after the lower leaves were removed. The plant will be allowed to dry and after the cut stem callouses the plant will be re-rooted and potted up again.


Haworthia emelyae var. comptoniana. Photo: Marlon Machado.


   You should not hurry to pot up the leaves. Place them in a cool and dry, shaded place - but mind you, they should not be left in the dark but in a bright place. After some time - it may take weeks or even months, depending on the species - you will notice root nodules starting to grow at the base of the leaves. It is only then that the leaves can be potted up. By then the rosettes from which the leaves were removed will long have rooted and will already be growing again!
你不应该急于种下下的叶。应将它们放置在阴凉,干燥,阴凉的地方 - 但提个醒,他们不应该被留在黑暗中,但在明亮的地方。过了一段时间 - 这可能需要数周甚至数月,这取决于物种 - 你会发现根瘤开始发展在壮大的叶子的基部。这是只有在那时,叶可盆栽起来。届时从除去了叶莲座将长有根,就已经再次生长!
        The substrate in which the leaves are potted up should be very open - use coarse sand, or grit, or perlite, or vermiculite, or seramis, or cat litter, whatever you have at hand as long as the medium is open. Also, avoid having a heavy hand at watering - light waterings now and then and frequent spraying is best. The leaves will root and soon they will start to produce little plantlets. Once the plantlets are formed, you can resume a more normal watering regime.
其中叶盆栽起来基材应该是很开放 - 用粗砂,砂砾或珍珠岩或蛭石,或seramis,或猫砂,不管你手头只要媒体是开放的。此外,避免过量浇水 - 轻浇水,然后现在和频繁的喷洒是最好的。叶子会生根,很快他们就会开始产生小植株。一旦植株形成,可以恢复比较正常的灌溉制度。
        I must really stress that the key to successfully growing new plants from leaves is avoiding potting the leaves up too soon, and avoiding watering them much. The most common reason for failure is too much water at this stage - the leaves will simply rot if watered too much. The leaves do not need much water because initially they will be producing roots and plantlets by using the reserves of water and energy that they contain in themselves. Only after the leaves are firmly rooted and have started to produce plantlets, is that normal watering can resume.
我真的要强调的是,关键成功在于增长的新叶应避免盆栽叶子涨得很快,并避免多浇水于他们。最常见的原因是失败了太多的水在这个阶段 - 叶子只会腐烂,如果浇水太多。叶子并不需要太多的水,因为最初他们将利用水和它们包含在自己的能源储备将产生根和植株。只有在叶子牢牢扎根,并已开始生产试管苗,是正常浇水即可恢复。
        I am sorry I do not have any pictures of plantlets growing out of the leaves to show to you, but trust me, the technique I described above works very well, and it is the only way of propagating vegetatively large numbers of a plant, short of propagation by tissue culture!
        As a last note, the technique works best if the plant from which the leaves are to be removed is in good healthy and turgid - nice and plump, with leaves full of water. If the plant is stressed or the leaves are shrivelled, the rate of success will not be as good. Also, not all species of Haworthia can be successfully propagated using this technique. It works best in those species whose leaves have some substance, like the retusoid Haworthia. Species whose leaves are very thin or which have very leathery leaves are less suitable, because either the leaves dry up before rooting or they stubbornly refuse to root.
作为最后结尾,该方法效果最好,如果该植株叶子被下除是在良好的健康和肿胀 - 漂亮丰满,叶全是水的前提下。如果植物有伤或叶子枯萎,成功率也不会那么好。此外,并非所有物种Haworthia可以成功地使用这种技术繁殖。它的工作原理在这些物种的叶子有一些物质,如retusoid Haworthia最好的。物种的叶子是非常薄的,或有非常坚韧的叶子是不太合适的,因为无论是叶片干枯之前或者他们顽固地拒绝生根。
        Cheers,
        Marlon Machado.
        Institute for Systematic Botany, University of Zurich, Zollikerstrasse 107, CH-8008 Zurich, Switzerland.
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