2015东欧旅游庆典之旅（四十二）捷克 布拉格 黄金巷到伏尔塔瓦河

        从圣乔治教堂出来，马导领着，七拐八拐就到了黄金小巷。这也是布拉格城堡中的老街啦。窄窄的石板路，矮矮的小屋，小小的门脸，或博物馆，或小商店，或小作坊，哪间屋子都有说不完的故事。这是布拉格最具诗情画意的小街，这里原来的城堡中仆人和工匠居住之所，后来聚集了不少为国王炼金的术士，所以由此得名黄金巷。到十九世纪，这里变成了贫民窟，到二十世纪中期，经过重新规划，将原来的房舍改成为小店家，一直至今。如16号的木制玩具，20号的布拉格小锡兵，21号的手绘衣服...这些小店的楼上还有古代兵器展览，过去的手工作坊，甚至还有家小小的电影院。

        当然这里出名的是22号，那里曾经住过捷克的大作家卡夫卡。这位1883年出生在布拉格的犹太人，一生可没有什么好运。尽管大学毕业，也没有谋到啥好工作。最后在这里租个小屋，写写小说杂文啥的。他的年代是第一次世界大战前后，整个欧洲经济萧条，社会腐败，人民贫困，这一切是卡夫卡终生都生活在痛苦与孤独之中，这一切也让卡夫卡英年早逝。精神忧郁的他，困惑焦虑，他那作品也充满了对社会的陌生感、孤独感和恐惧感，近乎于精神病般的作品成了他作品永恒的主题。在世时，他的作品能读懂的人不多，说是只有一个俄罗斯女记者，后来的银行家的夫人，这位女人叫杰森斯卡。百无聊赖的她天天到卡夫卡写作的咖啡馆看他的手稿，最后给卡夫卡留下一张便条，写到“我不得不坦白滴承认，我喜欢上了卡夫卡和卡夫卡所有的作品”。

        卡夫卡去世多年，他被尊为西方现代派文学的宗师和探险者，他被文学圣坛上誉为是表现主义作家中最有成就者。英国诗人奥登说：卡夫卡对我们至关重要，因为他的的困境就是现代人的困境。

        从黄金巷出来就是布拉格城堡的东门了，城门依旧有卫兵把守。站在山上可以俯瞰布拉格，漫步到河边，可以看到伏尔塔瓦平静的流淌。

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